Cuba Travel in 2025: Important insights every visitor should know

Back in 2009, we set foot in Cuba for the first time, and it left a lasting impression on us. The complexities, the people, the resilience, the music – it’s a country like no other. We kept going back regularly… until 2017. Then the pandemic forced us to hit pause. But earlier this year, we finally returned. What we found surprised us. Some things are the same: the music, the warmth of the Cuban people, their ingenious spirit. But in other ways, Cuba in 2025 felt like a different place: the economic pressure heavier, the daily struggle to survive more palpable.

If you’re planning your first trip – or wondering whether to return – our fresh insights might help you cut through the noise. And if you’re sitting on the fence, perhaps this will be the nudge you need to finally experience Cuba for yourself.

Economic Situation

Learning #1: Embargo/sanction pressures are worse than they’ve ever been

Let’s start by discussing the biggest elephant in the room: the US embargo. Implemented in the early 1960s, the embargo isn’t (just) about politics. It’s real, and it’s impacted ordinary Cubans’ daily struggle for survival over the past 60+ years.

If that’s not already enough, Cuba has been (re)designated a state sponsor of terrorism, alongside countries like Iran and Syria, in early 2021. And restrictions were further tightened in early 2025. In all our visits, we have never felt the impact of the restrictions placed on Cuba as firmly as we did in 2025.

The fallout?

• Owners of casas particulares and experience providers—all ordinary Cubans—who listed their properties and services on Airbnb can no longer access their income through the platform. Airbnb stopped all payments to Cuba in February 2025. Some use middlemen in third countries like Spain (and pay exorbitant fees) to receive the income they legitimately earned from overseas guests. But not everyone has that option.
• Even remittance payments from overseas Cubans to their families on the island have been severely restricted.

But it also affects us tourists:

• Foreign credit cards used to work in Cuba (during our previous visits). However, most of them no longer do—neither our Australian nor our German cards did.
• If you’ve visited Cuba since January 2021, you can no longer enter or transit via the US under the visa waiver program. Even if you don’t leave the airport, you’ll need a complete tourist (or transit) visa (both cost the same and have a lengthy application process). And even if you get the visa, you can still be turned away at the border.

Learning #2: Government shortcomings have exacerbated the embargo impact

While sanctions continue to strangle the Cuban economy from the outside, internal policy missteps have exacerbated the hardships for the Cuban population.

One of the most jarring examples is the government’s 2021 monetary reform – a sweeping change introduced amid the COVID-19 pandemic. Intended to address Cuba’s dual-currency system (we talk more about it in our Travel Budget Cuba article), it accelerated inflation and wiped out people’s meagre savings. Worse still, the reform didn’t eliminate the dual currency system: Cubans still have to navigate two local currencies – the (real) CUP (Cuban Peso or Moneda Nacional) and the (digital) hard-currency MLC (Moneda Libremente Convertible) that is needed to pay for imported goods in special state-run shops.

The monetary reform also contributed to a devaluation of the CUP and a thriving informal currency market: While Cubans are losing faith in the MLC, EUR/USD continue to be widely accepted (and much appreciated). Exchanging them through informal channels now yields (more than) three times as many CUP as you would get at a state-owned Casa de Cambio (CADECA).

For first-time visitors, these intricacies create confusion. For locals, it makes daily survival an even greater challenge.

Communication and (Mis)Information

Learning #3: The Internet has improved, but many foreign apps don’t work in Cuba

Cuba’s digital landscape has significantly changed since our last visit in 2017. Back then, you had to obtain a scratch card from an ETECSA (Empresa de Telecomunicaciones de Cuba, S.A.) office to use the public Wi-Fi provided in parks and pedestrian zones. Now, you can get mobile internet on your phone via a local SIM (though those scratch cards are still available and cheap).

It feels like progress. But beneath the surface, things are a little more nuanced, of course. Apps that previously didn’t work, such as Google Maps and Google News feeds, now function properly. While great for tourists to find their way around, locate businesses, and read reviews, it also means Google now uses its algorithms on the Cuban population (more on that in the next chapter). Other non-Cuban apps don’t work. And we’re not just talking about your banking apps – another effect of the sanctions against the country.

The solution? A good VPN (Virtual Private Network) service. However, (again) not all VPNs work in Cuba. The one that consistently worked for us was Private Internet Access (PIA).

Learning #4: US-sponsored anti-government propaganda is heating up

Before we returned to Cuba, we did what most travellers do – we researched. But the picture we saw online and the reality we experienced on the ground were vastly different. One of the reasons we decided to publish this article.

Many of the articles topping our feeds (both outside and in Cuba) weren’t authored by independent journalists or people who’d lived in or visited the country recently, but by media outlets and advocacy groups located in the US, with a clear political agenda. Some sources even denied that there is an embargo or any sanctions on Cuba at all. We know that isn’t true.

Also, while we were in Cuba, the (relatively new) US Ambassador toured the island. The message being sold (to Cubans and foreigners alike) was clear: Cuba is broken (and it’s all the fault of the Cuban government). In which other country is an ambassador (of a supposed enemy, no less) allowed to tour the country freely and spread politically biased information (to encourage a regime change)? It’s mind-boggling.

Electricity Supply

Learning #5: Blackouts are prevalent

We were aware of the blackouts before returning to Cuba, but we didn’t fully appreciate their extent or the impact they would have. So, let’s cover them here in more detail.

Since 2021, electricity outages have (sadly) become a part of life in Cuba, especially outside of Havana. The reasons are layered—ageing infrastructure, increased demand, and significant restrictions on fuel imports due to the embargo all contribute to them. Add a lack of hard currency into the mix, and the outcome is predictable.

We experienced outages firsthand:

• In Bayamo, the power went out randomly every 2-3 days, up to 6 hours at a time.
• In Holguín, outages were scheduled: half the town had electricity at certain times while the other half didn’t (and vice versa).
• Sancti Spíritus had electricity for 2-3 hours, followed by 7-8 hours of blackout. The rhythm was known to the locals, but the exact times of the outages weren’t.
• Playa Larga had only 2-3 hours of power a day.
• Even some suburbs in Havana, including Vedado, experience interruptions, though less frequently.

Fortunately, the water supply (to flush the toilet or shower) isn’t affected. And while it may be frustrating at first, especially for Western visitors, we found that after a few days, we adjusted and went with the flow.

Some casa owners have adapted too:

• In Sancti Spíritus, our hosts had portable solar lights and a (rechargeable) battery-powered fan we could use during blackouts.
• In Playa Larga, our hosts had invested in solar panels and an EcoFlow Portable Power Station, so their fridge stayed cold, the lights and fans were working, and devices could be charged at any time. Other casa owners had generators.

However, the broader impact, especially on Cubans’ social life and tourism, is hard to miss: Restaurants are closed or empty. Some museums are closed, too. The Casas de la Musica and de la Trova in Holguín and Sancti Spiritus—once popular spots for Salsa music and dance—were closed (even on Friday and Saturday nights). Provincial towns essentially shut down after dark. However, at least in Havana, things still operate (more or less) as they used to.

The government is attempting to tackle the crisis by rationing electricity nationwide. It plans to add 1 GW of solar and 0.4 GW of hydro capacity by the end of 2025 (according to one source we spoke to). But for now (and the foreseeable future), blackouts remain a part of life in Cuba.

Tourism and Hospitality

Learning #6: Tourist numbers are noticeably low

One of the first things we noticed upon arriving in Cuba this time was how quiet everything felt. Outside the major tourist hubs, we encountered barely any other international visitors. Outside Havana, tour groups were rare; we were often the only guests at our casa.

The upside? You’ll have plenty to explore without anyone else blocking your views and more time to connect with locals. While other destinations struggle under the weight of too many tourists, there is no overtourism in Cuba. Quite the opposite: tourism-dependent businesses (especially those in private hands) need you now more than ever.

Interestingly, we did notice a shift in demographics among the few foreign tourists we did meet: Chinese visitors are more prevalent than they used to be, and perhaps surprisingly, they don’t only visit Havana.

Learning #7: There is no shortage of food in Cuba (but bring sunscreen)

Given Cuba’s economic situation, you might expect food shortages, but that is not the case (unless you depend on food rations). Every time we visit, we are surprised by the variety, quality and affordability of the food available. 2025 was no different.

We found far more private paladares (family-run restaurants) than on previous visits, including some truly great options:

• El Chanchullero [Google Maps location] and Habana 61 [Google Maps location] in Habana Vieja – both served consistently delicious food at (for central Havana) very affordable prices (though El Chanchullero’s service was a bit hit and miss).
• Mesón La Cuchipapa in Bayamo [Google Maps location] is run by a passionate and incredibly welcoming team that serves the best meals in town (at very affordable prices), despite the frequent power outages.

Casa hosts still offer big breakfasts (at USD 5-7 per person), and many also serve hearty dinners (a multi-course meal for two cost us no more than USD12-15). Like in the US, portions in Cuban private restaurants are usually enormous – we often shared one meal between the two of us. Fresh juices are also widely available (our favourite: guayaba/guava). On the streets, seasonal fruit and veggie stalls are everywhere. And peso pizzas – yes, they’re still around – sell for as little as CUP200–300.

Sadly, there are also (still too many) state-run restaurants. You’ll spot them easily – empty dining rooms, uninterested staff, and food that’s best described as forgettable. One sector the Cuban government can definitely divest itself of.

While there is no shortage of food (or drinks), sunscreen is very hard to find in Cuba. So, make sure to pack enough to last your trip. Because the sun here is fierce.

Learning #8: Cuba can be as cheap or expensive as you make it

Many fellow travellers who have visited Cuba mention how expensive they found it. We spent less per day in 2025 than we did in 2017, even though the cost of living has gone up everywhere (including in Cuba). The truth is: Cuba, just like any other country, can be as cheap or expensive as you make it. It all depends on your travel style and comfort levels.

Want to stay in 5-Star hotels, eat in high-end restaurants in Habana Vieja, be chauffeured in a classic car taxi and don’t care about exchange rates? Then expect Cuba to be expensive. If you stay in casas particulares, eat mostly at family-run paladares (with the occasional peso pizza), use public transportation and take advantage of informal exchange rates, then Cuba can be incredibly affordable. For a detailed breakdown of our travel costs and budget-friendly tips, check out our Cuba Travel Budget guide.

Learning #9: Tourist visas and entry formalities are now entirely digital

If you’ve travelled to Cuba before, you might remember the days of dropping your passport at a consulate or picking up a tourist card at the airport. While valid tourist cards are still accepted until 31 December 2025, the visa process for Cuba is now all digital.

Step 1: Apply for your Cuban visa

For travellers from New Zealand, Australia, Canada, Germany and the United Kingdom, this process is straightforward. Apply online and receive your digital visa confirmation, linked to your passport, via email. Once you’ve received the email, you’ve got a year to enter the country.

If you’re travelling from the US, your visa must be issued under one of the 12 authorised OFAC categories – most independent travellers use Support for the Cuban People.

Step 2: Complete the D’Viajeros Form (within 72 hours pre-arrival)

All travellers must also complete the D’Viajeros advance information form before arrival. This replaces all previous paper customs and health forms. You can only complete it within 72 hours prior to arriving in Cuba. The form is available on the D’Viajeros website. After submitting, you’ll receive a QR code which you must present at check-in and again upon arrival in Cuba.

As mentioned in chapter 1, if you’re a non-US citizen who has travelled to Cuba after January 2021, you are no longer eligible to enter or transit via the US under the Visa Waiver Program. Once you’ve visited Cuba (or any other destination designated a state sponsor of terrorism, including Socotra in Yemen), you will have to apply for a US visa. The process involves an interview at your local US Consulate or Embassy (with lengthy wait times in some places). Be aware that there is no guarantee (a) that you will get the visa and (b) that they will allow you to enter the US, even if you have the visa.

Transportation

Learning #10: Viazul is no longer the only option (for long-distance overland travel in Cuba)

For years, Viazul was the go-to choice for long-distance travel in Cuba, particularly for tourists. But in 2025, things look different. Fewer Viazul buses are running; you’ll see more locals using them than tourists. One thing that hasn’t changed? The buses are still freezing inside. Bring a jumper, even if it’s 35°C outside.

Also worth noting: you can’t pay for Viazul rides using your credit card (online or in person). Yep, the sanctions are the reason – again (you’re using a Cuban company, after all). While you can book your ride and thus reserve a seat through the Viazul website, you can only pay for it in person (using EUR/USD cash) at the bus station (1.5 hours or less before departure).

Omnibuses Nacionales have replaced Astro buses as the state-run bus company serving Cubans. Still massively subsidised, rides are dirt-cheap but not available to tourists (and rightly so, with a trip from Havana to Santiago costing the equivalent of a peso pizza).

Hiring private taxis or hopping on a colectivo (shared taxi) are other valid alternatives. Colectivos cover shorter distances, from a provincial capital to nearby towns, for example, while private taxis can be a good alternative to taking a Viazul bus over longer distances. Just be prepared for some truly erratic driving styles. Seat belts for passengers? Usually non-existent. Nerves of steel? Highly recommended. Fortunately, the Carretera Central (outside of major towns) is almost devoid of traffic.

Another interesting development: Trains are running more frequently again. But it’s not the romantic rail journey you might imagine: Trains are still slow, and stop frequently (to let other trains pass or for no apparent reason). You’ll need to buy your ticket when they’re released to secure a spot. At 30 days in advance, that’s a bit tricky, though, for the typical tourist.

Learning #11: Fuel is available (if you can pay for it)

Fuel shortages come and go, like so many other issues in Cuba. CUP-priced fuel (for Cuban residents) remains tightly rationed. Often, it’s simply unavailable. On the flipside, USD-priced fuel is available (most of the time) – one of the reasons why you pay for your Viazul ticket or long-distance taxi ride in EUR/USD.

Learning #12: Travelling in Havana is easier and more affordable (than it used to be)

Getting around Havana has always required patience and local knowledge, but things are becoming easier for tourists to access (and more budget-friendly). Here are some of the changes we noticed during our recent visit:

• State-owned Transtur now operates a shuttle bus between Havana’s international airport (IATA: HAV) and key locations in Habana Vieja, Habana Centro and Playa – even for late arrivals. Instead of USD25-30 for a private taxi, a ride on the shuttle costs only USD5 per person.
• Within Havana, (mini/bus) metro taxis with fixed routes offer a great alternative to the cheap but often-cancelled guaguas (public buses) or more pricey private taxis. Like any other colectivo, they won’t take passengers when full, so your best chance to get on is at the starting point.

Another big plus is the La Nave app: no more haggling in Spanish at the kerbside. You’ll know the approximate price upfront and can book your private taxi through the app. Please note, however, that you’ll need a Cuban mobile number to use the app, which can be obtained by purchasing a SIM card for your phone (as mentioned above). It is also worth noting:

• Drivers usually confirm the ride in person over the phone (so answer your phone when it rings), and
• You pay your driver in cash (CUP) once they drop you at your destination.

Demographics

Learning #13: Many highly educated Cubans have chosen self-employment

Many Cubans are highly educated. Yet, especially in cities, many have left their formal careers to become self-employed in fields that are usually far less mentally stimulating than those in which they were educated. It’s not a lack of skill or ambition – quite the opposite. Many received state-funded higher education and even worked abroad as part of Cuba’s international assistance programs. However, their state salaries were insufficient to support a family. So, they pivoted towards work that provided a more reliable income (at least before the pandemic) and greater flexibility (to help their children and/or ageing parents).

These stories aren’t rare. Most of the professionals we met (hosts, drivers, guides) had once held roles for which they’d be paid very well in other countries. These include

• Alejandro (in his 50s) is a former mechanical engineer who taught in Ethiopia for two years (in English) and now drives a taxi.
• Zoraida (also in her 50s) is a former GP who spent four years abroad on medical missions (in Venezuela and Brazil) and now runs a casa particular.
• Likewise, Fanny and Reddy (both in their 40s), once pharmacists and laboratory technicians, have been casa hosts for over 10 years.

Learning #14: Others leave the country (in search of better opportunities)

Unlike the former GDR, where I grew up, Cuban people can travel to any country, as long as they have the necessary funds and can secure a visa for their destination. That freedom brings another complexity (when living conditions are harsh): mass migration. Where do most of them go? Many people used to move to the US. However, many others head to Spain (where ancestry makes it easier to obtain a visa) or other parts of Central and South America (where there is no language barrier).

Those left are the older generation, people our age and older. They stay, not always by choice, but because starting over in a foreign country at 50 or 60 just isn’t feasible. They also have family obligations – caring for ageing parents, for example, who need physical help in their daily chores.

Migrating is also expensive: We have heard of families who paid USD10,000 per person to get to the US. Even a one-year visa for Mexico can cost USD2,000. A fortune, not just for most Cubans.

As Alejandro put it, “Yes, Cuba has its problems. But so do other countries. And if you’re poor, you’re still better off here, because (at least) your healthcare is free.”

Learning #15: The gap between the haves and have-nots is widening

Speaking of being poor: For a country that sacrificed so much to remove inequalities brought about by centuries of colonialism, it’s sad to see inequality on the rise again.

What do we mean? While all Cubans face the same systemic issues, those with access to hard currency are doing (significantly) better than those without. Among the latter are especially older people in cities without family support or another source of income, as they must survive on the state pension.

Cristina, a former teacher, receives CUP2,000 per month (just over USD5, based on informal exchange rates during our visit). Fortunately, she has her family to support her financially. However, not all of them do: Fanny told us about an elderly lady, a former doctor, who was trying to sell cigars on the street in front of her house to supplement her pension.

When we asked Alejandro about the increasing number of beggars we noticed on the streets (especially in Havana), he remarked: “Back in 2017, no one was starving. Now, even eggs are a luxury for those who depend on rations”.

Streetscapes and Housing

Learning #16: Streetscapes are changing, but housing is still a massive issue

Arriving in Havana this time, we noticed (yet) fewer propaganda murals than the last time we were here (though there are still plenty in the Oriente).

The proportion of modern cars has also visibly increased – from European brands like Peugeot, Mercedes or Volkswagen to Asian ones like Geely, Hyundai or Toyota (even the occasional electric vehicle) – alongside the familiar fleet of 1950s Chevrolets, Dodges and Buicks, and the old Soviet Ladas and Moskvitches.

We also noticed new (high-end) hotel developments, particularly in and around Habana Vieja. Some incorporate historic buildings, others are completely new structures.

But just as striking – and far more sobering – were the buildings that had crumbled (further) since our last visit. Makeshift wooden props barely hold up entire structures. Once beautiful buildings with intricate facades are now reduced to heaps of rubble. Some collapses even resulted in fatalities, as people have nowhere to go and continue to live in these buildings until they finally come crashing down. Many of these ruins remain unsecured, spilling rubble onto sidewalks and posing a safety risk for those nearby. So, watch where you step when you walk around the streets, especially in Habana Vieja or Habana Centro.

By the way, while it sounds (and looks) alarming, do not let the state of some of the housing stock concern you when it comes to where to stay. We have yet to find a casa that was not in good shape. For a Cuban family, one of the significant benefits of earning hard currency is the ability to maintain their home.

Learning #17: Some Cuban city streets have two names

While we’re at it, let’s conclude our article on the topic of city streets…

When you find your way around Cuban cities, you will notice quickly that streets often have two names – one that predates the revolution (but is often still used by locals) and one noted on maps and street signs. Very confusing… Fortunately, Google Maps (usually) takes you to the correct street, even if you happen to search for the old street name (MapsMe even shows both names). One way or the other, you won’t get lost. It’s just another peculiarity to be aware of.

Cuba in 2025 is not what glossy marketing brochures or news headlines might lead you to believe. It remains a place of contradictions: hardship and hospitality, scarcity and ingenuity, struggle and pride. It is also a reminder of why slow, intentional travel matters. If you choose to visit, come prepared. Come ready to learn and support those working hard to create a dignified life on their terms.

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