Are you keen to hike the ancient pilgrimage trails of the Kumano Kodo? Why not follow emperors and other Japanese nobility and choose the Nakahechi route (also known as the Imperial Route)? Whether you have five days (or more) or only two, are a beginner or seasoned expert, our self-guided itineraries will help you create your perfect hiking adventure in the Kii Mountains of Japan.
Why choose the Nakahechi route?
The Nakahechi route is one of six remaining pilgrimage routes on the Kumano Kodo:
While more popular than some of the other Kumano Kodo routes, it is by no means a busy route (those having experienced the final 50 kilometres of the Camino de Santiago know what I mean by busy). The advantage of being more frequented is that you can stay in traditional Japanese inns along the way (with booking) rather than in your tent or a basic mountain shelter, and you don’t have to carry food for more than a day at a time.
The Nakahechi route is the only one connecting all three Grand Shrines of the Kumano Kodo, offering a unique cultural and spiritual experience.
Kumano Hongu Taisha is one of three Grand Shrines, collectively called the Kumano Sanzan
Kumano Sanzan - the three Grand Shinto Shrines of the Kumano Kodo
Kumano Hongū Taisha
Kumano Hongū Taisha [Official website, Google Maps location] is located in the centre of the Kii Mountains, at the confluence of the Kumano and Otonashi Rivers. Its original entrance is marked by the world's largest shrine gate (called Torii) - the Ōyu no hara Torii - which is 34 metres high and 42 metres wide. Being destroyed by floods (and rebuilt) a few times in its history, Kumano Hongū Taisha was relocated from its original position by the Kumano River to higher ground nearby in 1889. Among others, Kumano Hongū Taisha enshrines Izanagi, the founding father deity of Japan.
Kumano Nachi Taisha
Kumano Nachi Taisha is the second Grand Shrine in the Kii Mountains [Official website, Google Maps location]. It's uniquely positioned on the side of a mountain high above the Nachi River and next to Nachi Falls - at 133 metres, Japan's tallest single-drop waterfall and the home of Hiryū Gongen, another critical Shinto deity. Nachi-san (as the sacred complex is often called) is also home to Seiganto-ji, a Temple of the Tendai School of Buddhism, and a holy 850-year-old Camphor tree, which is said to grant wishes to worshippers who walk through its hollow trunk.
Kumano Hayatama Taisha
The third Grand Shinto Shrine, Kumano Hayatama Taisha [Official website, Google Maps location], is located on the east coast of the Kii Peninsula, in Shingū City near the mouth of the Kumano River. The Grand Shrine is home to a sacred 850-year-old Podocarp tree called Nagi no Ki. It is said that Izanagi and Izanami, the mythological couple that created Japan, first arrived in the area on a rock named Gotobiki Iwa. The rock marks the location of Kamikura-jinja, the original shrine, which pilgrims can reach by climbing a narrow 500-step stairway a few hundred meters south of the main complex.
The UNESCO world heritage Kumano Kodo trails connect sacred Shinto and Buddhist sites
Another advantage of the Nakahechi route is flexibility. It’s the easiest way to access the three mountain routes. You can, therefore, hike the Nakahechi route as a point-to-point hike (changing your accommodation each night) or base yourself in a central location and take buses to/from the starting/end points of each stage. You can also combine both (which we did over five days).
If you have walked (or are planning to walk) the Camino de Santiago and would like to be recognised as a Dual Pilgrim, only the Nakahechi and the Kohechi routes offer pilgrim passports (and stamps along the route) for your pilgrimage to be officially recognised.
Collect stamps along the Kumano Kodo if you want to have your pilgrimage (officially) recognised
Where to stay on the Kumano Kodo – Nakahechi Route
For accommodation, as with any other travel expenses, it's worth shopping around. When we book our accommodation, we look across several booking platforms to find the best value-for-money option. Wherever you book, read the fine print to compare apples with apples. For example, your stay may incur extra charges (like local tourist taxes or cleaning fees). Some booking platforms include them, while with others, you have to pay them to your host upon arrival.
Below are my recommendations for affordable accommodation options that often meet sustainability certification criteria and are close to public transport and points of interest.
| Name | Property Features | Location | Price Indicator | Book Now |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Minshuku Nakano | Twin room with two single futons Shared bathrooms and toilets (separated by gender) Shared kitchen and lounge area | Chikatsuyu | $$ | Book Now |
| Minshuku Momiji-no-Sato | Small rental house | Chikatsuyu | $$ | Book Now |
| Guest House Agae | Lovingly renovated rental house | Chikatsuyu | $$ | Book Now |
| Guesthouse Okagesan | Two Japanese-style rooms, Shared living room and kitchen | Hongu | $$ | Book Now |
| Guesthouse Yui | 2-star accommodation, but don't let the star rating fool you. | Hongu | $$ | Book Now |
| Minpaku Kodo | Japanese style guestrooms and Western style bunk rooms Instant food and snacks available for sale | Kii-Katsuura | $$ | Book Now |
| Guest Cafe Kuchikumano | 1-star guesthouse with 5-star service. Highly recommended as a great starting accommodation for your pilgrimage. Two adjoining rooms with a single futon each Shared bathroom and toilet Shared kitchen | Kii-Tanabe | $ | Book Now |
| Guesthouse Ogawaya | Washing machine Fully equipped kitchenette | Kii-Tanabe | $$ | Book Now |
| Guesthouse Takao | 3-star property Restaurant | Kii-Tanabe | $$ | Book Now |
| Koguchi Shizen-no-Ie | (Huge) Twin room with two single futons; Shared toilets (separated by gender) Public Onsens (separated by gender) Meal plan: Dinner, breakfast and bento box lunch (JPY9,000) | Koguchi | $$$ | Book Now |
| At Koguchi | Home-away-from-home in a remote mountain settlement | Koguchi | $$ | Book Now |
| Minshuku Momofuku | Run by Mr. Nakazawa, a friendly retiree. This tiny guesthouse has only two rooms. | Koguchi | $$ | Book Now |
| Oyado Hana | (Tiny) Twin room with two single futons Shared toilets Private Onsen (indoor) | Nachikatsuura | $$ | Book Now |
| Chochu Stay So House | Nachikatsuura | $$ | Book Now | |
| Hanare | Booking.com Preferred Partner 1 km from Kumano Hayatama Taisha | Shingu | $$ | Book Now |
| Kokoyui Guesthouse Shingu | Modern-looking Renovated older Japanese home | Shingu | $$ | Book Now |
| Shingu Guest House | 16-minute walk from Kumano Hayatama Taisha Shared lounge and kitchen | Shingu | $$ | Book Now |
| J-Hoppers Kumano Guesthouse | Twin room with two single futons Shared toilets Private Onsens (two indoor, one outdoor) Shared kitchen and lounge area Rice for dinner and rice porridge for breakfast | Yunomine | $$ | Book Now |
How long does it take to hike the Nakahechi route?
There are three (recognised) pilgrimage options on the Nakahechi route:
- Takijiri-oji [Google Maps location] to Kumano Hongu Taisha, a hike of about 38 kilometres.
- Kumano Nachi Taisha to Kumano Hongu Taisha (or reverse) – an approximately 30 kilometres hike; and
- Hosshinmon-oji [Google Maps location] to Kumano Hongu Taisha (an easy hike of around 8 kilometres) PLUS a visit to Kumano Hayatama Taisha AND Kumano Nachi Taisha (the latter two can be done by any means).
Option 1 can be completed in two days, even by people who consider themselves unfit. However, you need five to six days and a basic fitness level to hike the complete Nakahechi route (options 1 and 2 plus a visit to Kumano Hayatama Taisha).
That said, when thinking about whether to include the Kumano Kodo in your Japan itinerary (or leave it for another time), do consider the following: The Kumano Kodo is not just about spending time in the beautiful mountains and forests of the Kii Peninsula. Like the Camino de Santiago, it’s a spiritual journey – the longer you hike it, the more impactful it is. While not difficult to reach, it takes a few hours to get to Kumano Kodo from Osaka or Nagoya. We therefore recommend budgeting at least four to five days for the Kumano Kodo – the longer, the better.
The Kumano Kodo is a spiritual journey – the longer you hike it, the more impactful it will be
You can hike the Nakahechi route point-to-point (changing your accommodation each night). Alternatively, you can base yourself in a central spot, and take buses to/from the starting/end points of each stage. We provide various sample itineraries for each option below.
Hiking the Nakahechi route point to point
2-Day Sample Itinerary: Hosshinmon-oji to Hongū hike (8 kilometres) PLUS Kumano Hayatama Taisha and Nachi-san
This itinerary includes a hike from Hosshinmon-oji [Google Maps location] to Kumano Hongu Taisha (approximately eight kilometres) PLUS a visit to Kumano Hayatama Taisha (by pilgrimage boat) AND Kumano Nachi Taisha (option 3 of the recognised pilgrimage routes).
Day 0
Travel to the Hongū area and stay the night. If you remain in Hongū, enjoy the medicinal hot spring waters at the Public Bath (Sosei-no-yu) [Official website, Google Maps location]. If you stay in Yunomine Onsen:
- Head to the public onsen [Official website, Google Maps location] (or use the private onsen in your accommodation).
- Boil some eggs and sweet potatoes in the public hot spring – best bought at Yumune Chaya, [Google Maps location] the teahouse adjacent to the Yumune Kusushi Tōkō-ji Temple (squeezed between the river and the public onsen) – they make significant provisions for your hike.
If you pass through Yunomine Onsen boil some eggs and sweet potatoes in the public hot spring - they make great provisions for your hike
Day 1
Get up early and take the bus to the Hosshinmon-oji bus stop [Google Maps location]. Hike from there first to Hosshinmon-oji (collect your first stamp) and then (largely downhill) to Kumano Hongu Taisha (approximately 8 kilometres).
If you have time, continue to the Oyu-no-hara Torii [Official website, Google Maps location] (plus 1.5 kilometres) for a complete experience. Download the Hosshinmon-oji to Kumano Hongū Taisha map and Hongū area map for use offline during your hike.
After lunch, take the bus (number 51 to Shingū Station [Google Maps location], latest at 1325h) to Michi-no-Eki Kumanogawa [Google Maps location] and join the riverboat at 1430h (booking is essential). The riverboat tour takes 90 minutes, just enough time to visit Kumano Hayatama Taisha before it closes. If you can’t get a reservation for the riverboat, don’t fret: the bus from Kumano Hongū Taisha to Kumano Hayatama Taisha takes approximately 60 minutes (number 51 to Shingū Station [Google Maps location], latest at 14:45).
Taking the boat down the Kumano River to Kumano Hayatama Taisha is a unique experience on the Kumano Kodo
After exploring the Kumano Hayatama Taisha Shrine grounds, make sure you also visit Kamikura-jinja [Official website, Google Maps location]. This original shrine is on the rock named Gotobiki Iwa. It can be reached by climbing a 500-step stairway a few hundred meters south of the main complex.
Stay overnight in Shingū. Refer to our recommended accommodation options above.
Day 2
After breakfast, take the train and bus to Nachi-san (approximately 90 minutes). Get off at the Daimonzaka bus stop [Google Maps location] and hike the Daimonzaka steps (approximately 1.5 kilometres) to Kumano Nachi Taisha.
Spend some time exploring the sacred grounds:
- Visit the Grand Shrine and the adjacent Seiganto-ji Temple [Google Maps location];
- Make a wish and walk through the cavity of the sacred 850-year-old camphor tree (Shorei-sha Shrine Tainai-Kuguri) [Google Maps location] and
- Walk to the three-storied pagoda (or further to Hirō-jinja [Google Maps location) and admire Nachi Falls.
After lunch, continue your onward journey.
A steep climb up the Daimonzaka Steps takes you to the sacred sites of Nachi-san | Photo by Antonio Rull on Unsplash
3-Day Sample Itinerary: Hongū to Nachi-san hike (30km) PLUS Kumano Hayatama Taisha
This itinerary includes a hike from Kumano Hongu Taisha to Kumano Nachi Taisha (approximately 30 kilometres—option 2 of the recognised pilgrimage routes) and a visit to Kumano Hayatama Taisha.
Day 0
Travel to the Hongū area. After check-in, visit Kumano Hongu Taisha and Oyu-no-hara Torii [Official website, Google Maps location].
Stay the night in the Hongū area. If you stay in Hongū, enjoy the medicinal hot spring waters at the Public Bath (Sosei-no-yu) [Official website, Google Maps location]. If you remain in Yunomine Onsen:
- Head to the public onsen [Official website, Google Maps location] (or use the private onsen in your accommodation).
- Boil some eggs and sweet potatoes in the public hot spring – best bought at Yumune Chaya, [Google Maps location] the teahouse adjacent to the Yumune Kusushi Tōkō-ji Temple (squeezed between the river and the public onsen) – they make significant provisions for your hike.
Download the Hongū area map for use offline during your hike.
In Yunomine Onsen, buy eggs and sweet potatoes from Yumune Chaya, the tea house adjacent to the Yumune Kusushi Tōkō-ji Temple
Day 1
Today, you will hike the first stage to Kumano Nachi Taisha (also called Kogumotori-goe), which will take approximately 13 kilometres and 5 hours.
Get up early and take the bus to the trailhead between the Ukegawa bus stop [Google Maps location] and the Shimoji-Bashi bus stop [Google Maps location]. If you haven’t stocked up on supplies, there is a convenience store [Google Maps location] from the Ukegawa bus stop to the trailhead. There is a toilet at the Shimoji-Bashi bus stop. Stop here, as there is only one other public toilet on today’s section (requiring a 300-metre detour off the trail).
Use the public toilet at the Shimoji-bashi bus stop - there is only one other toilet along the Kogumotori-goe section of the Nakahechi
Today’s section takes you along (yet more undulating) forest trails, over a few passes (with lovely views on a clear day), past teahouse remains and several monuments, and ultimately on a long (and in parts slippery) descent into Koguchi.
Praying and giving thanks at the little shrines and statues is a right of passage along the Kumano Kodo
As you reach Koguchi, cross over the bridge (there used to be a ferry here back in the day) and follow the signs along the river and over the road tunnel. As you descend from the tunnel, you walk past a cemetery on your left. Just keep walking straight (through what seems to be people’s backyards) until you hit the village road (you see the main road and various bridges below you).
If you keep going straight along the village road, you’ll pass the post office (on the right, with an ATM) and a small grocery store [Google Maps location] (on your left, suitable for last-minute supplies).
Spend the night in Koguchi. Download the Kumano Kodo Nakahechi Route Map for use offline on your hike.
Upon completing the Kogumotori-goe section of the Nakahechi, crossing the Kowaze-bashi bridge will take you into Koguchi
Day 2
Today is the second stage of your hike to Kumano Nachi Taisha (also called Ogumotori-goe), which is approximately 16 kilometres or 5.5 hours.
Get up early and head to the trailhead (you can collect your next stamp there). Today’s hike crosses three mountain passes, with some very steep uphills and downhills. A shelter/rest stop is slightly off the trail at the top of the last pass. Make sure you stop there; you will be rewarded with beautiful panoramic views over the forests and mountains down to Kii-Katsuura and the Pacific Ocean.
Stunning views from the rest stop near Funami-toge pass make the small detour off the Ogumotori-goe section of the Nakahechi worthwhile
After the rest stop, you slowly descend into Nachi-san, passing a big parking lot through a recreational park. You finally exit the forest next to Seiganto-ji Temple [Google Maps location] – with a view of Nachi Falls and the three-storied pagoda.
Spend some time exploring the sacred grounds:
- Visit the Grand Shrine and the adjacent Seiganto-ji Temple [Google Maps location];
- Make a wish and walk through the cavity of the sacred 850-year-old camphor tree (Shorei-sha Shrine Tainai-Kuguri) [Google Maps location] and
- Walk to the three-storied pagoda (or further to Hirō-jinja [Google Maps location) and admire Nachi Falls.
Download the Koguchi to Nachi-san map for offline use during your hike.
Beautiful Seiganto-ji Temple is one of the sacred Buddhist sites in Nachi-san
Stay the night in Nachi-san or Kii-Katsuura. If so, make sure you catch the last bus at 17:35.
Refer to our recommended accommodation options above.
Day 3
After breakfast, take the (bus and) train to Kumano Hayatama Taisha (approximately 90 minutes from Nachi-san or just over 30 minutes from Kii-Katsuura).
After exploring the Kumano Hayatama Taisha Shrine grounds, make sure you also visit Kamikura-jinja [Google Maps location], the original shrine on the rock named Gotobiki Iwa. It is reached by climbing a 500-step stairway a few hundred meters south of the main complex.
After lunch, continue your onward journey.
When visiting Kumano Hayatama Taisha don't forget to climb the 500 steps to Kamikura-jinja, the original shrine at Gotobiki Iwa
5-Day Sample Itinerary: The complete Nakahechi point-to-point
This itinerary includes the hike from Takijiri-oji [Google Maps location] to Kumano Hongu Taisha (approximately 38 kilometres – option 1 of the recognised pilgrimage routes) and the hike from there to Kumano Nachi Taisha (approximately 30 kilometres – option 2 of the recognised pilgrimage routes) PLUS a visit of Kumano Hayatama Taisha by bus/train.
Day 0
Travel to Kii-Tanabe [Google Maps location] or the surrounding villages and stay the night. Pop into
- the Tanabe Tourist Information Center [Official website, Google Maps location] to grab a physical map of the Nakahechi route and
- a local supermarket or convenience store to buy provisions for the first stage of your hike.
Day 1
Get up early and take the bus to the Takijiri bus stop [Goolge Maps location] – you’d want to be there no later than 0900h.
Pop into the Kumano Kodo Information Center [Google Maps location] (in a round building across the river) for some last-minute advice and/or to use the bathroom. The Center also provides historical information on Kumano Kodo for those who want to learn more. Don’t stay too long, though, as you’d like to get going – there is a long day ahead of you.
The Kumano Kodo Information Center in Takijiri provides historic information on the Kumano Kodo as well as last minute supplies and a public toilet
Takijiri-oji [Google Maps location], the starting point of the Nakahechi Route, is across the road from the Information Center. The trailhead is to the left behind the shrine. Today’s hike will take you from Takijiri-oji to Chikatsuyu or Nonaka (13 to 17 kilometres/6 – 7 1/2 hours, depending on where you chose/found accommodation for the night).
If you want your pilgrimage officially recognised, stop along the route to collect stamps for your pilgrim passport. Remember to collect your first stamp at Takijiri-oji. The wooden stand containing the stamp is in front of the little café to the left of the entrance to the shrine grounds.
The trail head of the Kumano Kodo Nakahechi route is to the left behind Takijiri-oji
Today’s first stage of your hike is a steep climb, so take your time and watch your steps.
The first village you’ll pass through is Takahara, which has Takahara Kumano-jinja and a public rest area that is a worthwhile place to pause and rest. There is also a tiny family-run cafe called Coffee Keyaki [Google Maps location], which you’ll pass as you climb out of Takahara. It’s another worthwhile stop with gorgeous views over the mountains. Shortly after Takahara, you will pass the idyllic Takahara-Ike pond.
Takahara Kumano-jinja makes for a great rest stop after the steep climb from Takijiri-oji
From Takahara-ike pond, you climb through the forest until you reach the Umadawa-jaya teahouse, the day’s highest point.
Shortly before you reach Chikatsuyu, the trail briefly joins Highway 311, allowing you to use the public toilet and/or buy some food at the adjoining rest area before embarking on the day’s final stretch. This stretch takes you past the Gyuba-doji statue, a small statue showing Kazan, one of the first emperors to do the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage, sitting on a horse and cow.
Shortly before Chikatsuyu, you will pass Gyuba-doji, a small statue showing Kazan, one of the first emperors to do the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage, sitting on a horse and cow
Suppose your accommodation doesn’t provide dinner (or you chose not to book it). In that case, there are a few small cafes/restaurants (we had a great meal at Tororoya restaurant [Google Maps location]) in Chikatsuyu, though all close pretty early. Also, pop into the local A Coop Supermarket [Google Maps location] in Chikatsuyu to buy provisions for the next day.
Stay overnight in one of the Japanese inns along/near the Kumano Kodo or in Chikatsuyu or Nonaka (2 to 4 kilometres further along the route after Chikatsuyu).
During your hike, you can download the Takijiri-oji to the Takahara map and the Takahara (via Chikatsuyu) to the Tsugizakura-oji (Nonaka) map offline.
After passing the Gyuba-doji statue you slowly descend into Chikatsuyu
Day 2
Get up early and continue your hike along the Kumano Kodo. Today’s hike will take you to Kumano Hongu Taisha via Hosshinmon-oji (20 to 24 kilometres or 7.5 to 9 hours). While it is the longest of all your hiking days on the Kumano Kodo – Nakahechi Route, do make sure to stop at Tsugizakura-oji [Google Maps location]. The giant cedar trees are magnificent.
Make sure to stop at Tsugizakura-oji - the giant cedar trees are magnificient
Following Tsugizakura-oji, you climb, ultimately reaching Waraji-toge Pass, which makes for a nice rest stop.
You then descend and join a forest road along a valley stream. The original trail from here was severely damaged during a typhoon in 2011, requiring a detour to be put in place. You reach the detour further along the forest road, crossing a log bridge and climbing back into the mountains.
The original Nakahechi trail after the Waraji-toge Pass was badly damaged during a typhoon in 2011, requiring a detour to be put in place
After reaching the Detour Pass, the highest point of the day, the journey continues in (by now familiar) undulating fashion, following the Otonashi-gawa River and passing Funatama-jinja [Google Maps location] and Inohana-oji [Google Maps location] before reaching Hosshinmon-oji [Google Maps location].
From Hosshinmon-oji, it’s an easy descent into Hongū. En route, you will pass the Sangen-jaya junction, where the Kohechi route joins the Nakahechi route. Shortly after, there is a slight (and worthwhile) detour to a viewpoint overlooking the Oyu-no-hara Torii [Official website, Google Maps location] in the valley below.
A small detour near the Sangen-jaya intersection provides a first glimpse of the Oyu-no-hara Torii Gate in Hongu
After visiting Kumano Hongu Taisha and Oyu-no-hara Torii, pop into the local convenience store to buy provisions for the next day. If your accommodation doesn’t provide dinner (or you chose not to book it), have dinner at one of the few local cafes/restaurants in Hongū.
Afterwards, head to your accommodation in the Hongū area. If you stay in Hongū, enjoy the medicinal hot spring waters at the Public Bath (Sosei-no-yu) [Official website, Google Maps location]. If you remain in Yunomine Onsen:
- Head to the public onsen [Official website, Google Maps location] (or use the private onsen in your accommodation).
- Boil some eggs and sweet potatoes in the public hot spring – best bought at Yumune Chaya, [Google Maps location] the teahouse adjacent to the Yumune Kusushi Tōkō-ji Temple (squeezed between the river and the public onsen) – they make significant provisions for your hike.
Download the Takahara (via Chikatsuyu) to Tsugizakura-oji (Nonaka) map, Tsugizakura-oji (Nonaka) to Hosshinmon-oji map and Hosshinmon-oji to Kumano Hongū Taisha map to use offline during your hike.
If you stay in Yunomine Onsen head to the public bath or use the private onsen in your accommodation
Day 3
Today, you do the first hike stage to Kumano Nachi Taisha (also called Kogumotori-goe, approximately 13 kilometres or 5 hours).
Get up early and take the bus to the trailhead between the Ukegawa bus stop [Google Maps location] and the Shimoji-Bashi bus stop [Google Maps location]. You can hike from Kumano Hongū Taisha to the trailhead (approximately 4 kilometres), but you’d just be following the road, so save your energy.
If you haven’t stocked up on supplies, there is a convenience store [Google Maps location] from the Ukegawa bus stop to the trailhead. There is a toilet at the Shimoji-Bashi bus stop. Stop here, as there is only one other public toilet on today’s section (requiring a 300-metre detour off the trail).
On a clear day, you can enjoy stunning views from Hyakken-gura on the Kogumotori-goe section of the Nakahechi
Today’s section takes you along (yet more undulating) forest trails, over a few passes (with lovely views on a clear day), past teahouse remains and several poet monuments, and ultimately on a long (and in parts slippery) descent into Koguchi.
The descend into Koguchi is steep and slippery - take your time and watch your steps
As you reach Koguchi, cross over the bridge (there used to be a ferry here back in the day) and follow the signs along the river and over the road tunnel. As you descend from the tunnel, you walk past a cemetery on your left. Just keep walking straight (through what seems to be people’s backyards) until you hit the village road (you see the main road and various bridges below you).
If you keep going straight along the village road, you’ll pass the post office (on the right, with an ATM) and a small grocery store [Google Maps location] (on your left, suitable for last-minute supplies).
Spend the night in Koguchi. Download the Kumano Kodo Nakahechi Route Map for use offline on your hike.
Koguchi is a small settlement at the confluence of the Akagi, Higashi and Wada rivers
Day 4
Today is the second stage of your hike to Kumano Nachi Taisha (also called Ogumotori-goe, approximately 16 kilometres/5.5 hours).
Get up early and head to the trailhead (you can collect your next stamp there). Today’s hike includes three mountain passes with some very steep ups and downs. The rest stop is slightly off the trail at the top of the last pass. If you stop there, you will have beautiful panoramic views over the forests and mountains down to Kii-Katsuura and the Pacific Ocean.
After the rest stop, you slowly descend into Nachi-san, passing through a big parking lot and a recreational park. You finally exit the forest next to Seiganto-ji Temple [Google Maps location] – with a view of Nachi Falls and the three-storied pagoda.
In Nachi-san, visit Kumano Nachi Taisha, the adjacent Seiganto-ji Temple and make a wish at the sacred 850-year-old camphor tree
Spend some time exploring the sacred grounds:
- Visit the Grand Shrine and the adjacent Seiganto-ji Temple [Google Maps location];
- Make a wish and walk through the cavity of the sacred 850-year-old camphor tree (Shorei-sha Shrine Tainai-Kuguri) [Google Maps location] and
- Walk to the three-storied pagoda (or further to Hirō-jinja [Google Maps location) and admire Nachi Falls.
Download the Koguchi to Nachi-san map for offline use during your hike.
Stay the night in Nachi-san or Kii-Katsuura. If so, make sure you catch the last bus at 17:35.
Refer to our recommended accommodation options above.
Day 5
After breakfast, take the (bus and) train to Kumano Hayatama Taisha (approximately 90 minutes from Nachi-san or just over 30 minutes from Kii-Katsuura).
After exploring the Kumano Hayatama Taisha Shrine grounds, make sure you also visit Kamikura-jinja [Google Maps location], the original shrine on the rock named Gotobiki Iwa. It is reached by climbing a 500-step stairway a few hundred meters south of the main complex.
After lunch, continue your onward journey.
Located in the city of Shingu, Kumano Hayatama Taisha is the easiest to access but also the least crowded of the three Grand Shrines
Doing the Nakahechi route with day hikes from a central base
2(+1)-Day Sample Itinerary: The Nakahechi Main Route (38km) PLUS optional visit of Kumano Hayatama Taisha and Nachi-san
This itinerary includes a hike from Takijiri-oji to Kumano Hongu Taisha (approximately 38 kilometres – option one) PLUS a visit to Kumano Hayatama Taisha AND Kumano Nachi Taisha (option three of the recognised pilgrimage routes).
If this is your preference, we recommend basing yourself in Yunomine Onsen or Hongū.
Day 0
Travel to the Hongū area and stay the night. If you remain in Hongū, enjoy the medicinal hot spring waters at the Public Bath (Sosei-no-yu) [Official website, Google Maps location]. If you stay in Yunomine Onsen:
- Head to the public onsen [Official website, Google Maps location] (or use the private onsen in your accommodation).
- Boil some eggs and sweet potatoes in the public hot spring – best bought at Yumune Chaya, [Google Maps location] the teahouse adjacent to the Yumune Kusushi Tōkō-ji Temple (squeezed between the river and the public onsen) – they make significant provisions for your hike.
Day 1
Get up early and take the bus to Takijiri Shrine [Google Maps location] (1 to 1.5 hours). Hike to Chikatsuyu Shrine [Google Maps location] (or better yet: Tsugizakura Shrine [Google Maps location). Then, take the bus back to Yunomine Onsen or Hongū (the last bus from Nonaka is at 1800h).
You can download the Takijiri-oji to the Takahara map and the Takahara (via Chikatsuyu) to the Tsugizakura-oji (Nonaka) map offline during your hike.
Tsugizakura-oji is a beautiful small shrine along the Kumano Kodo Nakahechi route
Day 2
Get up early and take the bus to Chikatsuyu or Nonaka (depending on where you finished yesterday or if you want to continue today). The bus takes 30 to 60 minutes.
Hike to Kumano Hongu Taisha via Hosshinmon-oji (20 to 24 kilometres or 7.5 to 9 hours).
Explore Kumano Hongu Taisha and Oyu-no-hara Torii. Then, return to your accommodation (the last bus from Hongū to Yunomine Onsen is at 19:00).
Download the Takahara (via Chikatsuyu) to Tsugizakura-oji (Nonaka) map, Tsugizakura-oji (Nonaka) to Hosshinmon-oji map and Hosshinmon-oji to Kumano Hongū Taisha map to use offline during your hike.
The hike from Hosshinmon-oji to Kumano Hongū Taisha will take you past the Sangen-jaya intersection where the Kohechi joins the Nakahechi route
(Optional) Day 3
After breakfast, check out and take the bus to Shingū Station (approximately one hour). There, you can store your luggage in a coin locker.
Then, walk to Kumano Hayatama Taisha and spend the morning exploring the Shrine grounds. After exploring the Kumano Hayatama Taisha Shrine grounds, make sure you also visit Kamikura-jinja [Google Maps location], the original shrine on the rock named Gotobiki Iwa, which can be reached by climbing a 500-step stairway a few hundred meters south of the main complex.
Kamikura-jinja, the original shrine at Gotobiki Iwa is especially beautiful at sunrise
After lunch, pick up your luggage and take the train to Kii-Katsuura. Store your luggage again in a coin locker at the station (or if you stay the night in Kii-Katsuura, pop by your accommodation and ask them to store it for you until check-in).
Then, take the bus from Kii-Katsuura to Nachi-san (~20 minutes). Get off at the Daimonzaka bus stop and hike the Daimonzaka steps (~1.5 kilometres) to Kumano Nachi Taisha.
Spend some time exploring the sacred grounds:
- Visit the Grand Shrine and the adjacent Seiganto-ji Temple;
- Make a wish and walk through the cavity of the sacred 850-year-old camphor tree and
- Walk to the three-storied pagoda (or further to Hirō-jinja) and admire Nachi Falls.
After your visit, return to Kii-Katsuura (the last bus is at 17:35) and stay for the night or continue your onward journey.
Refer to our recommended accommodation options above.
When in Nachi-san, make a wish and walk through the cavity of the sacred 850-year-old camphor tree
What else should you know when hiking the Kumano Kodo/Nakahechi route?
This article focuses on different self-guided itineraries.
If you have other questions about the Kumano Kodo/Nakahechi route, our comprehensive guide answers questions like:
- What is the Kumano Kodo like (compared to the Camino de Santiago)?
- When is the best time to hike the Kumano Kodo?
- How to get to the Kumano Kodo/Nakahechi route?
- How to book accommodation on the Kumano Kodo/Nakahechi Route?
- What about food (and water) on the Kumano Kodo/Nakahechi Route?
And if you’d like to know how much to budget for your Kumano Kodo adventure, we’ve got you covered too.
Which Kumano Kodo itinerary did you choose, and how was your journey?
This itinerary for the Kumano Kodo Nakahechi Route is based on my experience. I’d love to hear from you if you’ve walked this path and have insights or tips to share. Your feedback could help others on their pilgrimage.
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