What no one tells you about climbing Mt Rinjani
Most people who have climbed Mt Rinjani will have done so using the Sembalun route to the summit. In fact, when we first looked into hiking Mt Rinjani, all we could find was the summit hike – no wonder it’s the busiest route.
But there are other aspects no one tells you about…
On the Sembalun route, there is no shade on the way up (or down), making the ascent under the scorching sun an arduous and exhausting experience.
Largely grassland (with hardly any trees), ascending/descending the Sembalun route is brutal on sunny days | Image courtesy of Azinomoto on Unsplash
The gruelling ascent/descent continues the following morning as you scramble to/from the summit of Mt Rinjani on loose screed | Image courtesy of Wikimedia Commons
Because the trail is so busy, it’s sadly also marred by litter, detracting from the pristine beauty of the surroundings.
Litter is a massive problem on the busy trails of Mt Rinjani, with wild animals rummaging through the rubbish left behind by inconsiderate people
This is the summit ledge you'll be sharing with many other hikers | Image courtesy of Sebastien Goldberg on Unsplash
If you're after this stunning view, we got news for you: You won't see it on the 2D/1N Mt Rinjani summit route | Image courtesy of Wikimedia Commons
An added benefit: Those longer hikes usually end in Senaru village [Google Maps location], which means you get to experience the views from the Senaru crater rim (and you descend through the jungle in the heat of the day).
Best hiking routes on Mt Rinjani (if you don’t want to climb THAT summit)
Not everyone wants to conquer the summit of Mt Rinjani, us included. If you’re in the same boat: Don’t do it. You don’t need to. There are alternative routes with more beautiful scenery, fewer crowds and less rubbish:
- 3-Day/2-Night Torean/Senaru hike (the option we did): Ascending from Torean village via Lake Segara Anak to the Senaru crater rim and then descending to Senaru village, you spend one night in the Torean Canyon and one on the crater rim.
- 2-Day/1-Night Tetebatu/Mt Sangkareang hike (which our friends Clara and Ben did): This trail starts and ends in Tetebatu on the southern slopes of Mt Rinjani. You spend the night on a southern ridge line and ascend to the second summit for sunrise.
Map of Accommodation, Points of Interest, Eateries and Transport
Below is a map of the recommended accommodation, points of interest, eateries and transport terminals/stops mentioned in this article.
3-Day/2-Night Torean/Lake/Crater Rim/Senaru Hike
Book here | Day 1: 1,000m elevation gain | Day 2: 1,040m elevation gain | Day 3: 1,840m elevation loss
This hike takes you from the village of Torean [Google Maps location] on the northern slopes of Mt Rinjani (at about 600 metres above sea level) to Lake Segara Anak [Google Maps location] (2,000 metres) and the Senaru Crater Rim [Google Maps location] (2,640 metres) before finishing at Senaru village [Google Maps location] (800 metres).
Day 1
Starting at the beautiful Nurul Yaqin Mosque [Google Maps location] in Torean village (which, with its eclectic exterior, could have been designed by Hundertwasser), the trail takes you through the outskirts of the village, farmlands and cultivated patches of forest for the first 200 metres of elevation gain before entering the jungle and becoming steeper.
Looking like a Hundertwasser creation, the Nurul Yaqin Mosque in Torean village is the starting point of the 3D/2N Torean/Senaru trek
Ascending higher and higher, now and then the jungle gives way to stunning views of the Torean Canyon, with waterfalls tumbling into gorges deep below and near vertical cliffs towering above. The landscape here is otherworldly and absolutely breathtaking.
With deep gorges and stunning waterfalls, the Torean Canyon landscapes are out of this world
At about 1,300 metres, the trail leaves the jungle and continues along a cliff wall, following a sulphuric river in the valley below. From here on (all the way to the crater rim), the trail is more exposed, with vegetation consisting of tall grasses, ferns, and scattered trees and shrubs. The trail in this part is very steep and narrow, with huge drops on one side, requiring you to use the ladders and ropes provided (and occasionally all fours) to climb or descend.
The trail is equally unreal, with steep drops on one side (and only limited safety equipment) requiring your full attention at all times
Your campsite on your first night is on a highland plateau near the banks of the sulphuric river at about 1,600 metres elevation (called Propok).
Your first night is spent in the Torean Canyon at the Propok campsite at about 1,600m elevation
Day 2
The following morning, you continue your ascent, crossing the river and climbing up the canyon wall on the other side along the same steep and narrow trail (with the occasional rope or ladder).
On day 2, you will cross the sulphuric river and continue your ascent on the other side of the canyon
After 1.5-2 hours, you reach a small plateau with a hot spring [Google Maps location] - great for a relaxing soak (and to watch the antiques of the macaques that roam the area) before you continue your hike. After another hour and a bit, the trail reaches the shores of Lake Segara Anak [Google Maps location].
At an altitude of 2,000 metres, the weather at the lake can change in an instant (we experienced everything from sunny clear skies to strong winds, thick fog and drizzle in the span of only 15 minutes).
Eventually, you will reach Segara Anak Lake at an elevation of 2,000 metres - right in time for lunch
The trail continues along the lake shore for a while, and after lunch, you continue your ascent up the crater rim wall, first traversing a rocky riverbed and then continuing along steep and narrow sections (and yet more ladders, ropes and occasional steel stairs) - offering many opportunities to look back at the lake, the new volcanic cone growing in its middle and the summit of Mt Rinjani above.
After lunch, your ascent gets even steeper as you make your way up the crater rim wall, rewarding you with everchanging views back down to the lake
A final set of steel stairs brings you onto the crater rim - a grassland ridge and the location of your second night's campsite.
The sunset views from up here are mesmerising, with the lake and summit of Mt Rinjani (AKA the famous photo on one side) and a field of clouds, with Mt Agung in Bali peeking through in the distance (on the other).
Your second night's camp is at the crater rim with stunning sunset views all the way to Mt Agung in Bali
Day 3
On your last morning, the trail first follows the ridge line and then starts to descend. Leaving the crater rim after a few final photos of Mt Rinjani and the lake below, the first part of the descent is a slippery journey down a steep rocky trail.
The first part of your descent on day 3 is down a steep and slippery rockwall
After about an hour, the grassland vegetation starts to become thicker, with more and more trees and shrubs appearing along the trail, and the jungle eventually returning at about 2,000 metres elevation. The descent from there on leads solely through the jungle, with the trail finishing at the National Park gate in Senaru village. Expect to arrive in Senaru between 1300h and 1500h.
We've only encountered three companies that do this route and decided to go with Green Rinjani. Please read our detailed review here.
The remainder of the trail (from 2,000 to 800 metres elevation) goes through jungle, ending at the National Park gate - a great spot to take a photo with your crew
2 Day/1 Night Tetebatu/Mt Sangkareang/Tetebatu Hike
Book here | Day 1: 1,650m elevation gain | Day 2: 800m elevation gain and 2,450m elevation loss
This hike takes you from the village of Tetebatu [Google Maps location] on the southern slopes of Mt Rinjani to Mt Sangkareang [Google Maps location] (with a height of 3,200 metres, also called the second summit of Mt Rinjani).
Day 1
The trail starts at the Monkey Forest on the northern outskirts of the village (at about 750 metres above sea level), allowing you to observe groups of long-tailed grey macaques and shy Ebony leaf monkeys/East Javan langurs jumping around the tree tops.
The 2D/1N Tetebatu/Mt Sangkareang trail starts at the Monkey Forest, giving you ample opportunity to observe macaques and langurs | Image courtesy of Clara Fischer
After the forest, for about 15-30 minutes, the trail leads through a small open area with grasses and scattered trees, before thicker vegetation returns.
Open grassland follows the Monkey Forest - enjoy the views as they won't last long | Image courtesy of Clara Fischer
From there on, the trail ascents steadily (and for several hours) through a dense jungle with a wide variety of plants - including many different species of epiphytes (from orchids and bromeliads to ferns and lichens) - ever-changing as the altitude increases.
Most of the trail leads through dense jungle, with the vegetation changing as you gain altitude | Image courtesy of Clara Fischer
The final section to the ridgeline (from 1,700 to about 2,400 metres) is very steep (continuing largely through dense jungle). Clouds might roll in in the late afternoon, giving the jungle an even more mystical feel.
Late afternoon mist gives the jungle an even more mystical feel | Image courtesy of Clara Fischer
At an altitude of around 2,300 meters, the trail finally crosses the tree line, and the dense vegetation gives way to grasses and shrubs. The camp for the night is set up along the ridge leading to Mt Sangkareang.
You'll be camping on the ridge leading up to Mt Sangkareang, with beautiful panoramic sunset views
Day 2
Setting off at 0400h the following morning, the path to the summit of Mt Sangkareang (the second summit of Mt Rinjani) initially leads through waist-high grass, which over time, gets shorter and shorter, before disappearing completely and becoming rocky. You'll reach the summit just in time for sunrise. On a clear day, the panoramic views from the top stretch to Mt Tambora on the neighbouring island of Sumbawa.
Reaching the (second) summit just in time for sunrise, you're rewarded with views all the way to Mt Tambora on Sumbawa | Image courtesy of Clara Fischer
And of course, you'll be able to see the summit of Mt Rinjani and Segara Anak Lake with the new volcanic cone forming within.
This is the view of Lake Segara Anak and the new cone from the second summit - and no crowds to share it with | Image courtesy of Clara Fischer
After sunrise, you descend the same way you came, stopping at the campsite for breakfast before continuing downhill (with another two rest stops, including lunch) along the way. You'll be back in Tetebatu around 15:00.
Our friends Clara and Ben chose to go with Ulem Ulem Adventures, and are highly recommending them (see their Google review here). As their group (of six people) carried their own gear (including tents, food and water), they did not have porters but just two guides: Sum and Hirman. The Ulem Ulem Adventures office is located right at the start of the trail (Google Maps location).
Our friends Clara and Ben did this trek with Ulem Ulem Adventures but carried all their gear/food/water themselves | Image courtesy of Clara Fischer
Best time of the year to hike Mt Rinjani
The best time to hike Mt Rinjani is just after the wet season – in April and May. During this time, the ground is still moist, resulting in less dust and better grip on the trail.
June to August is considered high season, especially around Indonesian Independence Day (17 August) when many students climb Mt Rinjani’s summit. For safety reasons, the mountain is closed to hikers during the rainy season (January to March).
It is important to note that there is a maximum limit of 200 visitors per day allowed to trek on the mountain, with a maximum of 160 on the northern trails (entering through the gates at Senaru, Sembalun or Torean) and 40 on the southern trails (entering from Aik Berik, Tetebatu or Timbanuh). Permits are organised by the tour company you book your trek with. You can check how many permits have been issued on the National Park website.
How to stay safe on Mt Rinjani
By being prepared, aware and cautious, you can minimize risks and ensure a safe hiking experience on Mt Rinjani.
Volcanic and seismic activity
Mt Rinjani is an active volcano and Indonesia (Lombok in particular) a seismic hot spot. Volcanic eruptions and earthquakes can happen at any time:
- Mt Rinjani last erupted in September 2016, keeping the mountain closed until after the rainy season in 2017. Hikers will be able to see Gunung Barujari, the new volcanic cone growing in the crater lake.
- In July and August 2018, Lombok experienced a string of powerful earthquakes, hitting North Lombok particularly hard. Mt Rinjani was closed until mid-June 2019.
Gunung Barujari has been forming in the crater lake since the 1840s with frequent eruptions | Photo on Wikimedia Commons
Stay informed about any recent activity and follow the guidance of local authorities. If you want to be prepared for an earthquake on the mountain, here is some practical advice:
Earthquakes are common in North Lombok – we experienced one two days after our Mt Rinjani trek | Source: Volcano Discovery
Trail safety
Hiking Mt Rinjani is hard work as it is. Don’t try and attempt it if you have any health issues or are sick.
Be cautious on the slippery trails of the northern routes, especially during the dry season. Hikers have fallen to their death – don’t be the next one. Hiking shoes with a good profile are essential. Also, consider using hiking poles for extra stability. Take your time and be fully present while hiking. Don’t take unnecessary risks for the sake of a (selfie) picture.
Last but not least: Make sure you drink enough water throughout your hike (don’t worry, you won’t need to go to the toilet more often – you’ll sweat it all out).
The trails on Mt Rinjani are challenging - Use the safety equipment where provided and always pay attention
What to pack for your Mt Rinjani hike
Carrying appropriate gear, including warm clothing and rain gear, is important for any hike. No matter which trail you choose, the temperature range on your hike will be immense: from 30-35 degrees Celsius (86-95 degrees Fahrenheit) in the sun during the day to 5-10 degrees Celsius (41-50 degrees Fahrenheit) on the crater rim at night (and even lower at the summit). Layers are therefore essential (our sleeping bags were not warm enough on their own). Make sure your backpack can accommodate a 1.5-litre water bottle (or two).
Below is my recommendation based on our experience.
| Quantity | Item | Recommendation for women | Recommendation for men | Comments |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Hiking Pack | Matador Beast28 Ultralight Technical Backpack | Matador Beast28 Ultralight Technical Backpack | |
| 2-3 | T-Shirt | Unbound Merino Womens Merino V-Neck T-Shirt | Unbound Merino Mens Crew Neck T-Shirt | One per day Wear the clean one overnight |
| 2 | 3/4 Pants / Shorts | PrAna Halle E-Waist Short II | Patagonia Mens Quandary Shorts | To wear during the day |
| 1 | Comfortable Long Pants | Outdoor Research Women’s Voodoo Pants | Patagonia Mens Quandary Pants | To wear in the evening/overnight |
| 3 | Underwear | Allbirds Womens Anytime Thong | Unbound Merino Mens Boxer Briefs | |
| 1 | Bra | Boody Lyolyte Triangle Padded Bralette | N/A | |
| 1 | Long-sleeve T-shirt | Unbound Merino Womens Slim Merino Long Sleeve V-Neck | Unbound Merino Long Sleeve Crew | To wear in the evening/overnight |
| 1 | Jumper or Cardigan | Mons Royale Approach Merino Gridlock Jacket | Unbound Merino Mens Compact Travel Hoodie | To wear in the evening/overnight and early morning |
| 1 | Leggings or Long Johns | Icebreaker Womens 200 Oasis Thermal Leggings | Icebreaker Mens 200 Oasis 3/4 Thermal Leggings | To wear under your pants overnight |
| 1 | Rain Jacket | Marmot Womens Gore-Tex Minimalist Pro Jacket | Patagonia Mens Torrentshell 3L Rain Jacket | |
| 1 | Hat / Beanie | Unbound Merino Beanie | Unbound Merino Beanie | Wear hat during the day and beanie at night |
| 1 | Buff | Buff Merino Lightweight Neckwear | Buff Merino Lightweight Neckwear | Optional - to protect against the sun, dust and cold |
| 1 | Gloves | Mons Royale Volta Merino Glove Liner | Smartwool Liner Gloves | Optional - to wear at night |
| 1 | Towel | PackTowl Personal Towel | PackTowl Personal Towel | If your trek includes a stop at a hot spring |
| 1 | Bathing Suit | Bikini Season Coja Multiway Bikini Top and Bikini Season Porto Cheeky Bottom | Patagonia Mens Hydropeak Boardshorts | If your trek includes a stop at a hot spring |
| 1 pair | Hiking Shoes | Salomon X Ultra 4 GTX Womens Hiking Shoe | Xero Shoes Mesa Trail WP | Good profile/grip - DO NOT wear road running shoes |
| 3 pairs | Hiking Socks | Macpac Merino Blend Trail Ankle Sock | Fox River Basecamp 2.0 Lightweight Quarter Crew Hiking Sock | |
| 1 pair | Sandals | Xero Shoes Z-Trail EV | Xero Shoes Z-Trek | Optional, but recommended to wear around the campsite |
| 1 pair | Sunglasses | Rudy Project Rydon Sunglasses | ||
| 1 | Headlamp | Nitecore NU25 headlamp | Nitecore NU25 headlamp | |
| 1 set | Hiking Poles | Highly recommended - we hired ours from Green Rinjani | ||
| Trail Snacks | For example: muesli bars, dates and nuts | |||
| 1 | Small Garbage Bag | To collect own rubbish (tissues, wraps etc) during the hike | ||
| Basic toiletries and wet tissues | You won't be able to shower for a few days | |||
| 1 | Basic First Aid Kit | Include at least pain killers and adhesive bandages | ||
| 1 bottle | Magnesium Chloride Spray and/or Diclofenac Gel | Optional | ||
| 1 bottle | Sun Screen | Apply daily prior to commencing your hike (and reapply during the day as needed) | ||
| 1 bottle | Insect Repellent |
With 2,000+ metres elevation gain/loss on your trek, temperature differences will be immense - bring layers to be prepared for hot/sunny and freezing/wet conditions
Where to stay in Tetebatu
For accommodation, as with any other travel expenses, it’s worth shopping around. When we book our accommodation, we look across several booking platforms to find the best value-for-money option. Wherever you book, do make sure you read the fine print to make sure you compare apples with apples. For example, your stay may incur extra charges (like local tourist taxes or cleaning fees). Some booking platforms include them, while with others, you have to pay them to your host upon arrival.
Below are my recommendations for accommodation options that fit the criteria of affordable, often meeting a sustainability certification, and that are close to public transport and points of interest.
| Name | Property Features | Type | Price Indicator | Book Now |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bale Tetebatu | Restaurant 24-hour front desk and full-day security Certain documented environmental practices implemented at property. | House | $$ | Book Now |
| Bunga Maliq Bungalow | Certain documented environmental practices implemented at property. | Homestay | $ | Book Now |
| Hide and Seek | On-site restaurant Tour Desk Certain documented environmental practices implemented at property. | Hotel | $ | Book Now |
| Joben Ecolodge | On-site restaurant Certain documented environmental practices implemented at property. | Guesthouse | $ | Book Now |
| Mysha Guest House | Friendly hosts On-site restaurant Offers private tours Certain documented environmental practices implemented at property. | Guesthouse | $ | Book Now |
| Tetebatu Fullmoon | Facilities for physically impaired guests On-site coffee shop Certain documented environmental practices implemented at property. | Guesthouse | $ | Book Now |
Where to stay in Senaru
Below are our recommendations for accommodation in and around Senaru before and after your hike.
| Name | Property Features | Type | Price Indicator | Book Now |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Green Rinjani Lodge | Clean rooms with beautiful views Certain documented environmental practices implemented at property. | Guesthouse | $ | Book Now |
| Ila Homestay | Mountain views Restaurant | Homestay | $ | Book Now |
| Rinjani Lodge | Certain documented environmental practices implemented at property. | Bungalows | $$ | Book Now |
How to get to Mt Rinjani
The easiest way is to fly to Lombok International Airport (LOP) [Google Maps location]. There are regular flights from the following Indonesian airports: Bima, Denpasar, Surabaya, Soekarno, Sumbawa Besar, and Yogyakarta International and direct flights from the following international airports: Kuala Lumpur and Singapore.
Many trekking companies can arrange to pick you up from the airport and transport you to your pre-trek accommodation. It takes approximately two hours to drive from Lombok Airport, Also known as Zainuddin Abdul Madjid International Airport to Sembalun.
The most direct route to Mount Rinjani is to fly to Lombok, which has direct flight connections to eight cities in Malaysia, Indonesia and Singapore. It takes just over two hours to drive from Lombok Airport to Sembalun – you can book a taxi, or transport might be included in your trek.
Still on the fence about hiking Mt Rinjani off the beaten path?
Do you have any questions I haven’t answered? Please let me know. I’m happy to help.
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