Komodo National Park Guide 2024: How to visit and what to expect

Visiting Komodo National Park has been on my travel bucket list since I watched David Attenborough documentaries as a child. So when we started to plan our two-month trip around Indonesia, there was no question: we would somehow manage to incorporate Komodo National Park into our itinerary. Less easy was finding information about how to organise a trip into the park as independent travellers, especially in a way that is ethical and sustainable. If you landed here because you also found the information out there lacking depth, here is everything we’ve learned when we visited the park.

Where is Komodo National Park and what makes it so unique?

Established in 1980, Komodo National Park is located between the main islands of Flores and Sumbawa in Indonesia. Measuring about 2,000 square kilometres in size, the park comprises 29 volcanic islands and the marine environment surrounding them. The park experiences one of the driest climates in Indonesia. The vegetation on the islands is therefore mostly semi-arid savannah.

Komodo National Park (and a few pockets in coastal West and North Flores) are the only places on earth where you can observe Komodo Dragons (Varanus komodoensis) – the world’s largest living lizards – in their natural habitat. Furthermore, the park’s nutrient-rich waters attract an incredible marine biodiversity – from whale sharks, manta and eagle rays, dugongs and sea turtles to more than 1,000 species of tropical fish and 260 species of coral. To protect these unique eco-systems, Komodo National Park was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1991.

Map of Accommodation, Points of Interest, Eateries and Transport

Below is a map of the recommended accommodation, points of interest, eateries and transport terminals/stops mentioned in this article.

What’s so special about Komodo Dragons?

Growing up to 3 metres/10 feet in size, Komodo Dragons are not only the largest extant species of lizard. They are also truly prehistoric creatures, having roamed the planet for (at least) 4 million years.

Komodo Dragons have venom glands which release toxins that prevent blood clotting, lower blood pressure and induce shock, enabling these lizards to prey on animals that outsize them (for example, buffalos).

Female Komodo Dragons have both male and female chromosomes, enabling them to reproduce even without a mate, through an asexual reproduction process called parthenogenesis. Not much bigger than a human hand at birth, Komodo Dragon hatchlings spend their first few years in trees to have a greater chance of survival (they are even preyed on by their own kind).

Komodo Dragons are an endangered species. Starting with over 5,000 lizards at the park’s UNESCO Heritage designation, there are now fewer than 3,500 left in the wild. Their decline is caused by human encroachment, uncontrolled tourism, poaching of the lizards and their prey (especially deer) and climate change (causing aridification, more wide-spread wild fires and rising sea levels).

How to get to/from Komodo National Park?

The main gateway for Komodo National Park is Labuan Bajo, a town on the West Coast of Flores, Indonesia. Labuan Bajo is connected by air and sea to other Indonesian islands.

By Air

Labuan Bajo’s airport was aptly (re)named Komodo International Airport [IATA code LBJ] when the new terminal was opened in 2015. While labelled international, flights to and from Labuan Bajo are currently only domestic, with the main international connection points being Jakarta (CGK) and Denpasar (DPS). From there, you can book a flight with:

• Lion Air / Wings Air / Batik Air,
• Nam Air, and
• Garuda Indonesia / Citilink

to travel to Komodo International Airport.

From the airport, it’s best to take a Gojek to your accommodation or walk – the city centre is only about 1.5km away, although the shortest route is via a hill.

By Sea

(Passenger) Ferries from Bali, Lombok, Sumbawa, South Sulawesi, Maluku, West-Papua or West-Timor to Labuan Bajo (and vice versa) are operated by state-owned ferry operator PELNI. These (multi-storey) ferries run relatively infrequently (usually twice a month), so ensure you check the schedule.

There is also a daily (vehicle and passenger) ferry from Sape on Sumbawa to Labuan Bajo (and vice versa). The ferry is scheduled to leave Sape at 0900h and arrive in Labuan Bajo around 1600h (the scheduled departure and arrival times are the same from Labuan Bajo). We recommend turning up at the port (of Sape or Labuan Bajo, depending on which direction you want to travel) at least an hour before departure to purchase your ticket. The port of Labuan Bajo is located in the city centre.

Overland

If you travel from Maumere or Ende, you can also reach Labuan Bajo by bus, via Bajawa and Ruteng. We have used and can recommend Gunung Mas. From Ruteng, you can buy tickets at the Gunung Mas office on Jl. Diponegro [Google Maps location]. The buses leave from there too. Buy your tickets at least a day or two ahead of time, as they get booked out.

Upon arrival in Labuan Bajo, our bus driver asked us where we needed to go and dropped us off within walking distance of our accommodation (outside Seaesta Komodo).

When is the best time to visit Komodo National Park?

The best time to visit Komodo National Park is just after the wet season, from April to June, when the island vegetation is at its greenest, the climate feels less oppressive, and the sea is calm. If you are more interested in the park’s treasures under water than on land, September to November are good too. These are the best months to observe manta rays, the tourist crowds have gone home, and the climate feels more comfortable again.

July and August are best avoided as those are the hottest, busiest and most expensive months. It’s also the dragons’ mating season, which means they can be more difficult to spot and/or may be a bit more aggressive. Likewise, we also don’t recommend visiting the park during the wet season (December to March), as these months bring wild weather (high winds/waves and lots of rain).

For further information about the park’s climate year-round check out Weatherspark.

How to visit Komodo National Park?

What options exist and how do they compare?

Most people visit Komodo National Park either on

• a multi-day cruise on a phinisi (traditional wooden schooner) – often called liveaboard; or
• a day excursion on a phinisi or motorboat.

Phinisi cruises from/to Labuan Bajo come in different comfort levels/price points – from basic (small bedroom below deck with bunk beds and shared bathroom) to luxury (upper deck hotel-style bedroom with ensuite). Phinisis can accommodate between 12 and 24 guests.

If you are travelling in a big group, you can hire the whole phinisi (including crew) as a private charter. Otherwise, you can join a shared/group/open trip which leaves on set days. Most common are

• 3 Days/2 Nights – usually Friday-Sunday or Monday-Wednesday, and
• 2 Days/1 Night – which are only available on weekdays.

There are also phinisis that take you from Bali, Lombok or Sumbawa to Labuan Bajo (and vice versa). These tend to be at the most basic/cheapest end: everyone sleeps on deck (simple mattresses are usually provided), any bathroom is shared (if they work at all), and safety is not their strong point.

As the name suggests, day excursions leave Labuan Bajo early in the morning and return in the late afternoon/early evening. Phinisis (as they travel slower even when they use their engine/s) tend to not venture as deeply into the park as motorboats (it takes about an hour by motorboat from Labuan Bajo to Padar/Komodo Islands, phinisis take about 2 hours to the Komodo Dragon viewing spots on Rinca Island).

What activities/sites in the park do the different tours cover?

Whether liveaboard or day excursion, some trips/operators focus solely on diving (and don’t visit the islands of the park/Komodo Dragons at all), others provide a mix of activities on land (including an encounter with the Komodo Dragons) and in the water.

Mixed activity tours (whether one or multi-day) visit (largely) the same spots:

• Rinca or Komodo Island (to observe the giant lizards),
• (a hike up to the viewing point on) Padar Island,
• a Pink Beach (on either Padar Island or Komodo Island),
• Manta Point (a cleaning station for manta rays and great place to encounter these majestic creatures),
• Taka Makassar (a sandbank near Manta Point) and
• Turtle Bay (a great spot to observe sea turtles with a beautiful coral garden).

In addition, multi-day liveaboards may also visit Kelor Island (usually a hike) as well as snorkelling at Manjarite Beach, Sebayur Island and/or Kanawa Island. Phinisis by their very nature travel slower (even when the engine is in use), so multi-day liveaboards are great for those who like being out on the water and want to experience a night or two on board/in the park. Staying in the park also allows liveaboard operators to include activities at sunset (for example, Kalong/Bat Island where you can observe flying foxes take off for their nightly feed) and sunrise (for example, a sunrise hike on Padar Island) – something day trippers miss out on.

Komodo National Park entrance fees vary based on the number of days you stay in the park and the activities chosen. Your operator will tell you how much (and collect the fees – cash only – accordingly).

Do you need to book in advance?

If you want to join a liveaboard, and you only have a specific window of time, we recommend to organise your trip in advance. Likewise, if you’re after a certain standard of boat/accommodation/budget, you’re advised to book ahead (as the best value-for-money options go first). Liveaboard is a great website to find a liveaboard for your dates/budget.

If you’re keen to book in advance, you may also want to check out these options:

If you are flexible (both in time and standard/budget), you can just turn up in Labuan Bajo and see what (last minute) liveaboards are available. Day excursions can easily be booked in person a day in advance. Most operators have shops on the main street (Jl. Soekarno Hatta), and you can just walk in and chat with them.

What we did

We looked into the multi-day options, but couldn’t justify the price compared to day excursions. I get seasick very easily and wasn’t sure I would enjoy myself being on a boat for 2-3 days.

Given we had settled on doing a day excursion, we arrived in Labuan Bajo without a booking. That said, we had looked up a few operators with good reviews and contacted some ahead of time to understand what the availability would be like at the time of our visit. Upon arrival in Labuan Bajo, we visited the operators on our short list (and a few others) at their shops, talked to the staff and then decided to book with Red Whale Dive Center.

We paid IDR1,450,000 (plus National Park entrance fees of IDR300,000) per person at the beginning of September 2023.

The Komodo Island National Park entry fees are to be paid in cash and may be different at the time of your visit as a (further) increase has been in discussion for a while. Your tour operator will confirm the fees upon booking.

Google reviews talked about the company’s sustainability approach, which was one of our key criteria. If you want to learn more about our experience with Red Whale Dive Center, you can read our in-depth review here.

What else did we learn?

Expectations vs Reality

If you’re expecting a David Attenborough-style experience when observing the Komodo Dragons in their natural habitat, you may be disappointed. On Komodo Island, guides/rangers stick to the well-trodden medium trail where the dragons’ behaviour is impacted by the presence of humans (villagers, park staff and tourists) and food (there are food stalls dotted along the foreshore). For a chance encounter with the giant lizards away from the (partially populated) coastal areas, you’d have to organise guides/rangers who take you on the inland trails (at an additional fee).

If you’re a keen diver (and don’t care about seeing Komodo Dragons), you’re better off joining a (multi)day tour organised specifically for divers. We were recommended:

• Manta Rhei Dive Center – our friends Clara and Ben did a tour with them; and
• Uber Scuba Komodo – two Californian girls we met on our day tour had joined one of their tours the day before.

Be sun-wise

As mentioned, the climate at Komodo National Park is hot all year around (day time temperatures hover around 31-34 degrees Celsius / 89-93 degrees Fahrenheit). With the savannah-like vegetation on the islands, there is not much shade, so apply (reef-safe) sunscreen regularly and wear a hat.

It gets choppy

The sea between Labuan Bajo and the islands of the Komodo National Park can get surprisingly choppy, even during the dry/calm season.

Two girls on our day excursion, headed upstairs to spend the one hour ride to Padang Island on the sun deck (lulled be the calm waters when we left the port in Labuan Bajo). Not long after though, it got really choppy. The girls got absolutely drenched and had to be helped back down and inside the boat for safety reasons.

If you’re concerned you might get seasick, make sure to bring (and take) tablets.

Bring your own go-pro/underwater camera

The underwater world of Komodo National Park is spectacular (and much more versatile than on land). But (at least our tour) didn’t include any underwater photos. While we rented a GoPro for the day, the person we borrowed it from charged us an arm and a leg – IDR400,000/USD26. So, bring your camera to document your encounters with the park’s underwater creatures.

Where to stay in Labuan Bajo

With (multi)day trips starting in the morning, we recommend staying at least the night before the start of your trip in Labuan Bajo. If you book a day excursion, you will also want to stay a second night in Labuan Bajo. Multi-day liveaboards tend to finish around lunchtime (another reason why we didn’t book one), thus you could book a flight out later that afternoon/evening.

While more touristy than the rest of Flores, Labuan Bajo is far smaller and quieter than any of the tourist hotspots on Bali it is sometimes compared with. As such, it also has nowhere near as many (quality) accommodation options. That said, there are some very nice hostels, hotels and apartments available right in town:

Feature image courtesy of Ivan URIARTE.