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What and where is the Danube Delta?
Travelling 2,850km from its source in Germany across Europe, the mighty Danube River fans out as it reaches the Black Sea. Here, depositing alluvium by the river and tidal activities from the sea has created a vast, intricate network of marshlands, lakes and sandy islands (many of which are uninhabited). While estimated to be over 5,000 years old, the Danube Delta is still growing: 40% of its landmass has formed in the past 1,000 years, mainly due to erosion and sediment shifts caused by human activity upriver.
Covering 4,178 kmยฒ (1,613 square miles), the Danube Delta is the second-largest river delta in Europe (after the Volga Delta). The Delta straddles two countries – 82% lies in Romania, primarily in Tulcea County (if you look at the flounder-shaped country on a map, it’s the top part of its tail), while the remaining 18% is in Ukraine’s Odessa Oblast.
In the Danube Delta, the river has three main branches, each carving a different path to the Black Sea (from north to south):
- Chilia Arm – The youngest and most active, constantly shifting and (re)forming the natural border between Romania and Ukraine.
- Sulina Arm – Straightened and dredged to allow for commercial shipping.
- St. George Arm – The oldest, slowest and most winding route.
The town of Tulcea (pronounced tool-tcha) serves as the main gateway to the Danube Delta. Here, visitors can board ferries, join guided tours or arrange private boat trips to explore the Delta’s landscapes and remote villages.
One of the busiest shipping routes in Europe, the Danube Delta is also a biodiversity hotspot
Map of Accommodation, Points of Interest, Eateries and Transport
Below is a map of the recommended Danube Delta accommodations, points of interest, eateries and transport terminals/stops mentioned in this article.
Why is the Danube Delta so unique (and what challenges does it face)?
A biodiversity hot spot
The Danube Delta supports 7,280 species (4,286 fauna and 2,994 flora). Among these are:
- 365 species of birds (160 of which are non-migratory), including the Dalmatian pelican, pygmy cormorant and white-tailed eagle;
- 135 species of fish (from carp and catfish to the critically endangered Danube sturgeon);
- 51 species of mammals (such as otters, minks, foxes, wild cats, golden jackals and raccoon dogs);
- 12 species of reptiles and 10 species of amphibians.
Recognising its ecological significance, the Danube Delta was designated a Biosphere Reserve in 1979. In 1991, it was awarded UNESCO World Heritage status, further reinforcing its importance as a globally significant conservation area.
A fragile ecosystem under threat
The Delta’s rich biodiversity and delicate habitats are under increasing pressure from human activity and environmental changes:
- Dam construction upstream has reduced the water flow to only 1/3 of what it used to be, impacting the natural flooding cycles. With climate change thrown into the mix, many wetland areas are drier than ever.
- The Sulina and Chilia arms have been modified for commercial shipping, altering water dynamics, increasing erosion and affecting fish migration.
- Coastal erosion and salinification have increased as human activity and climate change disturb the fragile balance between river and sea.
- As if this were not enough, illegal fishing and overharvesting threaten key species, particularly the sturgeon, which was once abundant in the Delta.
The Danube Delta is home to 365 bird species, including the Great White and Dalmatian Pelicans
When is the best time to visit the Danube Delta?
Timing your visit can make all the difference in your experience. The Danube Delta changes dramatically with the seasons, influencing accessibility and wildlife sightings:
- Summer (July/August) is the peak season for domestic travellers. Expect hot and humid weather, busier waterways, and higher accommodation prices. While the Black Sea is great for swimming, some areas can be noisy and crowded.
- For pleasant temperatures, fewer crowds and optimal wildlife viewing, visit in late spring (May/June) or early autumn (September/October). These months coincide with the arrival and departure of migratory birds, making it an excellent time to visit (even if you are not a bird-watching enthusiast).
- April also offers a quieter time to explore. While migratory birds haven’t arrived, you’ll still see plenty of birds and other wildlife. Spring water levels are also at their highest, making more of the Delta accessible by boat.
For more information on the climate in the Danube Delta year-round, check out Weather Spark. Whichever time of the year you choose, the Delta’s climate is unpredictable, so always check the latest weather forecast before setting out.
Spring and Autumn are the best times of the year to explore the Danube Delta
How many days should you set aside for the Danube Delta?
The Danube Delta is not a place to rush through. Its remote nature and limited road access mean that getting there and genuinely experiencing its beauty takes time. The number of days you should spend depends on how much of the Delta you want to explore and how deeply you want to immerse yourself in its unique ecosystem and traditional way of life.
Minimum: 2 nights (1 full day in the Delta)
If you’re short on time, two nights/one day would give you the opportunity to
- Join a guided boat excursion through the maze of reed-lined channels and lakes, with some basic birdwatching and wildlife spotting.
- Get a glimpse of local life in a fishing village like Mila 23, Criศan or Letea.
More remote villages in the Danube Delta, like Mila 23, are only accessible by boat
Recommended: (At least) 4 nights / 3 full days
For a more profound and rewarding experience, we recommend staying (at least) 4 nights/3 full days in the Danube Delta area. This gives you time to:
- Explore the quieter backwaters of the Delta for a more immersive wildlife viewing experience.
- Enjoy a mix of boat trips and walking and cycling in areas accessible by land.
- Spend time in local villages, get a feel for local life and enjoy the native cuisine.
Whether you base yourself in one location or move between different areas, the Danube Delta is an excellent destination for slow travel.
From day excursions to multi-day cruises, there are many ways to appreciate the Danube Delta's beauty
How to get to the Danube Delta (without a car)?
Getting to Tulcea, the central transportation hub in the Danube Delta, requires some planning, as it’s nowhere near a major highway or airport. The most convenient options are bus and train, each with advantages depending on your budget, comfort and travel time.
Cheapest Option: Train
Travel from Bucharest Nord to Tulcea by train takes around 5 1/2 hours and costs RON95.50 per adult one way in second class. The train departs (in either direction) twice daily – in the early morning and mid-afternoon. Each journey requires a transfer in Medgidia.
Up-to-date timetables and tickets are available via CFR Cฤlฤtori.ย Selectย Bucureศti Nord to Tulcea Oraศ (or the reverse).
Best Option: Bus (Faster and More Direct)
There is also a bus transfer option from the Autogara Augustina Bus Station, a 10-minute walk from the Bucharest Nord Train Station (and the option we chose and recommend). At RON140 per person, one-way is more expensive than the train. But with departures every two hours (between early morning and late afternoon), it is more frequent and shaves about 1.5 hours off your travel time.
The Augustina bus company uses modern, comfortable Mercedes minibuses with air conditioning. Seats are allocated (book early for front-row seats). While the minibus doesn’t have an onboard toilet, there is a 10-15-minute rest stop about halfway (outside Tandarei at Popas Racmanย – Google Maps location). You can also buy food and drinks at the rest stop, but your driver may not allow consumption on board.
Your journey experience will depend on the driver and traffic. On the way to Tulcea (on a Sunday afternoon), we had no traffic, the drive was pleasant, and we arrived 45 minutes ahead of schedule. From Tulcea (on a Thursday morning), we had a less enjoyable experience, thanks to our driver’s erratic driving style. At least we arrived on time, despite the lunchtime traffic in Bucharest (and live to tell the tale).
Go to the Autogari or Augustina websites for up-to-date timetables and to buy tickets online. You can also purchase tickets in person at Autogara Augustina Bucharest or Tulcea (their office is inside the Navrom building next to the bus station). Book a few days in advance, as each minibus only fits 15 passengers.
Cheapest Option: Train
Travelling by train is also the cheapest option from Constanศa, Romania’s fourth-largest city on the shores of the Black Sea (south of the Danube Delta). With two daily departures in either directionโearly morning (with a change in Medgidia) and mid-afternoon (direct)โthe journey takes around four hours. The direct train is the cheapest, with a second-class ticket costing RON33/USD7.50 per adult one way (the journey with a change in Medgidia costs RON42.50/USD9.50 per adult one way).
Up-to-date timetables and tickets are available via CFR Cฤlฤtori. Selectย Constanศa to Tulcea Oraศ (or the reverse).
Best Option: Bus (Fastest and Most Convenient)
Bus transfers from Constanศa to Tulcea depart from the Autogara Trace Trans bus station (near the City Park Mall) and are provided by the Trace Trans bus company. They, too, use Mercedes minibuses with air conditioning and comfortable seating. Multiple departures are available throughout the day, from early morning to mid-evening. The journey takes about 2 hours and costs RON60 per person one way.
For up-to-date timetables and tickets, go to Autogari or head to the Autogara Trace Trans bus station.
Apart from trains, comfortable minibuses connect Tulcea, the gateway to the Danube Delta, with Bucharest and Constanța
How to get around the Danube Delta?
As a vast network of waterways, the Danube Delta is best explored by boat.ย But for those who love to explore on foot or by pedal, there are also several walking/cycle trails. If you do any of the cycling trails, bring a good puncture repair kit (with plenty of patches), as punctures are frequent.
The Danube Delta has a surprising number of trails for hikers and cyclists to enjoy
Let’s start with the most environmentally friendly options.
Trips On Bike by the train station in Tulcea offers bicycle rentals. Just contact them via WhatsApp. When we visited, the going rate was RON100 per bike per 24 hours (with discounts offered for multi-day rentals). Many accommodation providers also offer bike rentals.
Canoes and kayaks can be rented in various locations throughout the Delta. Enquiries can be made with Stefan at Canoe Rental Tulcea (+40 745 075 813). Alternatively, ask your accommodation provider about local rental options.
Bicycles and kayaks can be taken on the Navrom Delta Ferry for transport to different parts of the Delta.
Speed Boat Shuttles (Tulcea – Sulina)
Several companies offer speed boat shuttles between Tulcea and Sulina, providing one of the fastest ways to travel through the Delta. Sulinatrans is a popular choice. Another option is Nautica Sulina, which offers day trips from Sulina and can be contacted via their Facebook page. Travel Delta Star operates a shuttle that also stops in Criศan, making it a convenient option for those wanting to stop/stay in Criศan.
Hydrofoil (Tulcea – Sulina)
Apart from the speed boat shuttles, there is also a hydrofoil service between Tulcea and Sulina, but only during the summer months (from May to September). To check current schedules and prices, visit the Nava Rapida Diana Facebook page.
Navrom Delta Ferry (Tulcea – Periprava/Sulina/Sf.Gheorghe and Criศan – Mila 23/Caraorman)
The Navrom Delta Ferry provides regular services across all three primary river arms, between Criศan and Caraorman and Criศan and Mila 23.ย Visit Navrom Delta for up-to-date timetables and tickets.
Day trips are widely available from Tulcea, Sulina and various villages along the Delta’s waterways.ย If you are looking for a tour, there are a few ways to find an operator:
- One of the best approaches is to ask your accommodation host for recommendations (and let them book it for you).
- Alternatively, along Tulcea’s waterfront, many operators display their offers and schedules, allowing you to compare different options.
- If that is too much hassle or you want to book in advance, you can also book one of the tours listed on Viator.
Before booking, check a few details to make sure the experience meets your expectations:
- Consider the route and departure time – earlier departures typically provide better conditions and wildlife sightings.
- Assess the type and comfort of the boatโa roof is essential for shade on a hot summer’s day, while clear zippered side panels are recommended for colder or windier days to protect from the elements.
- Also, check the maximum group size and whether your guide/captain will narrate in English.
- Finally, always read Google/Tripadvisor reviews before committing to a tour (be aware, though, that the names of the companies are all very similar).
We joined a group tour operated by Exploreaza Delta Dunarii, which our accommodation host arranged after she fell nearly off her chair when we told her how much we’d been quoted by Plimbare Delta Dunarii (RON300 per adult for the tour – the going rate for the route we chose – plus RON200 per person for an English-speaking guide (a total of RON1,000). We share more about our experience below.
Multi-day cruises offer a unique way to explore the Delta. Unlike the Danube river cruises further upstream, floating hotels are pulled by a tugboat, allowing travellers to drift slowly through the Deltaโgreat for wildlife viewing opportunities at sunrise and sunset. Recommended cruise options include IBIS Tours, with cruises accommodating up to 20 participants.
For those who want to combine cycling and cruising, Cyclando offers a Bike and Boat Tour.
Boat transfers in the Danube Delta include speed boats, a hydrofoil as well as a public ferry
Danube Delta Day Trip – Our experience with Exploreaza Delta Dunarii
Boat, crew and passengers
The boat operator‘s brother, Caesar, picked us up from the dock at around 9:00. While he spoke perfect English, he didn’t join our tour (sadly). Instead, we were handed over to Marius, our boat captain (and guide for the day). His English was sufficient, but he conducted most of the narration in Romanian (even though only 4 of the 14 passengers on the day were Romanian speakers). Thankfully, one of those four kindly took up the role of (unpaid) translator.
Our boat’s official capacity was 12 people (printed onto the hull), but 15 people were on board (13 adults, one child, and the captain). Apart from the Romanians mentioned above, our group comprised two German cyclists (about to start their cycling adventure from the mouth to the source of the mighty Danube), a German family spanning four generations, a novice birdwatcher from the United Kingdom, and a 30-something traveller from Sweden.
All passengers were given life jackets, but no safety instructions were given before departure (or at any other point during the day). There was no toilet available on board.
When joining a day excursion, make sure to wear life vests at all times
Route: Tulcea – Mila 23 – Letea – Sulina – Tulcea
We chose this route to cover a larger area of the Danube Delta, accepting that we’d miss out on wildlife-watching opportunities. You can follow our route on the map above.
The journey between Tulcea and Mila 23 was the calmest part of the day. We could spot white egrets, white-tailed eagles, common wood pigeons, whiskered terns, grey herons, kingfishers and hoopoes. Apart from birds, we also encountered frogs and a fish otter.
Mila 23
Just before noon, we stopped in Mila 23 for a toilet and coffee break (who knew there’d be Illy coffee in the middle of the Delta). Trying to make up for lost time (we were running late by the time we left Mila 23), the ride to Letea was slightly bumpy. On route, our captain pointed out where the Black Sea coastline used to be 1,000 years ago.
In remote villages like Letea, families still live off farming and fishing (and increasingly tourism)
Letea Forest
Arriving in the quiet fishing village of Letea, we swapped our boat for an open-sided, safari-style vehicle and headed into the countryside. A different driver/guide took over, but his voice was barely audible, so sitting at the front of the vehicle is recommended. Again, our volunteer translator saved the day by summarising what was said up front to the rest of us. The forest contains 400-year-old oak trees. On route and in the forest, we could observe wild horses.
The tour to the forest costs an extra RON20 for the driver/guide plus RON10 in reserve entry fees.
Lunch in Letea
After our forest tour, we stopped at the La Caisฤ restaurant in Letea for lunch. The restaurant’s owners, one of 50 families living in the village (without fresh water but with access to electricity), prepared the food before our arrival.
Our shared meal included:
- Ciorbฤ de Peศte is a soup with three types of fish (carp, pike and catfish), potatoes and vegetables. The broth and ingredients were served separately (enabling guests to pick out the many small bones in the pike/carp).
- Crispy fried fish (karass, a type of carp) with mฤmฤligฤ/polenta and mujdei/a spicy garlic sauce (very delicious).
- Gogoลi/doughnuts for dessert.
Bottled water, white wine and ศuicฤ (a plum-based spirit) accompanied our meal. The (substantial) lunch costs an extra RON70 per person.
A day excursion includes lunch - a great way to sample local specialties, including Ciorbă de Pește and Țuică
Danube/Black Sea Confluence
To reach the point where the Danube flows into the Black Sea, we had to cross a large estuary leading into the open sea and then re-enter the Danube through the Sulina Canal. The waters on the estuary and at the confluence were very choppy, and this part of the trip wasn’t for the faint-hearted, especially considering that our boat was overloaded.
If you’re prone to seasickness, sit on the right-hand side (as you travel) to focus on the land-side horizon. Sea sickness tablets are also advised.
Sulina
Our final stop of the day was Sulina, a super-quiet port town. We strolled around, watching giant ships pass through the canal and visiting a lovely private maritime museum (more on that below). Interesting fact: The Delta does not experience tidal changesโwho would have thought?
Sulina's rich maritime history is beautifully captured at the Old Sulina Exhibition, collated and run by passionate locals
Craving a Romanian Adventure Off the Beaten Path?
Discover the raw beauty of Piatra Craiului National Park on a rewarding day hike from Braศov. Perfect for slow travellers and nature lovers, this guide shows you how to explore responsiblyโwithout a car, without the crowds, and with a deeper connection to place.
What else should you do in the Danube Delta?
While the Danube Delta is best known for its waterways and wildlife, Tulcea and Sulina offer several land-based activities worth your time.
Tulcea
In Tulcea, we recommend checking out the Monumental Eroilor (Heroes Monument), a historical landmark offering 360-degree views over Tulcea and the surrounding landscape (08:00-23:00) and a great spot to watch the sunset.
Head to the Heroes Monument in Tulcea for 360 degree views over the town and surrounding delta landscape
Right next to it is the Muzeul de Istorie ลi Arheologie (Museum of History and Archaeology), which showcases the region’s rich history, including remnants of an ancient Roman fortress, Cetatea Aegyssus. The museum is open 09:00-16:00 Tuesday through Sunday (RON10 per person). However, when we popped by on a Monday, a museum staff member opened the exhibition just for us. How kind is that?
It’s also worth toย visit theย Casa Avramide (09:00-17:00 Tuesday to Sunday). This well-preserved historic house provides insight into the 19th-century lifestyle of wealthy Tulcea residents. Lastly, take a stroll along Tulcea’s waterfront. While not the prettiest, we learned that the Delta is the birthplace of many of Romania’s watersports greats, including 5x Olympian Canoeist Ivan Patzaichin.
If you didn't know it: The Danube Delta is also the birthplace of many watersports greats, including 5x Olympian Ivan Patzaichin
Hiking in Mฤcin Mountains National Park
For those who enjoy hiking, the Mฤcin Mountains National Park, Romania’s oldest mountains, offers several scenic trails:
โข Sulucu Mare โ Sulucu Mic โ Piatra Rรขioasฤ Loop (from Mฤcin)
โข ศuศuiatu Loop Hike (from Greci)
โข ศuศuiatu Loop Hike (from Luncaviศa-Cetฤศuia).
To reach the Mฤcin Mountains National Park, it’s best to get a car for the day, as the park is 60โ80 km from Tulcea, a one-hour drive. Contact Mihai for car hire options: +40 740 081 158, moc.liamg@72dasiahim. National Park entry fees are RON10 per person (valid for two days).
Sulina
Sulina has a rich maritime history and is home to a small but fascinating museum. The Old Sulina Exhibition (11:00-18:00) is a private collection of maritime memorabilia and old photos of Sulina curated by Gheorghe Cฤmรขrzan, its welcoming and passionate owner. Entry is also RON10 per person.
Near Tulcea, Măcin Mountains National Park, Romania’s oldest mountains, offers several scenic trails | Image source: Wikimedia Commons
Where to stay in the Danube Delta?
The largest settlements in the Romanian part of the Delta are Tulcea (approximately 92,000 inhabitants) and Sulina (approximately 3,000 inhabitants). Neither of these towns is particularly scenic or inviting, making them less ideal for an immersive Delta experience. Instead, we recommend staying outside these populated centres, where you can enjoy tranquillity and experience village life.
Located a short ferry ride from Tulcea across the Danube, Tudor Vladimirescu is a small, peaceful village with only one shop. The contrast between the high-rise Soviet-style waterfront of Tulcea on the southern bank of the river and the tranquil, picturesque fishing village on the northern riverbank couldn’t be any more noticeable.
The passenger ferry from Tulcea to Tudor Vladimirescu (RON3 per adult or RON1.50 for bicycles/excess luggage) operates frequently from early morning until late at night. Check the timetable online or on the Moovit app: From Tulcea | To Tulcea.
Where to Stay
We stayed atย Pensiunea Casa Vera and highly recommend it. Vera and her son George are beautiful human beings (and Vera is an outstanding cook – so much so that we had breakfast and dinner at home).
Situated along the Sulina arm, Criศan is about two-thirds of the way from Tulcea to Sulina. This village is only accessible by boat, using the Navrom Delta Ferry or the Travel Delta Star speed boat service.
Where to Stay
While we didn’t end up staying in either, the following three made it onto our shortlist:
Murighiol is located off the St. George arm, about halfway between Tulcea and Sfรขntu Gheorghe. It is one of the few places in the Delta accessible by both boats – the Navrom Delta Ferry or Transfer Delta speed boat and bus (from Tulcea). The bus operates (at least) three times a day – 06:00, 12:15 and 16:45 (return at 09.55, 15:55 and 19:55) – taking about an hour. The bus stop in Murighiol is opposite the supermarket; the return bus departs from just past the intersection.
Where to Stay
We don’t have first-hand experience, but I have shortlisted these three:
Sfรขntu Gheorghe (as the name suggests) is located on the St. George arm, just before the Danube meets the Black Sea, and can only be reached by boat – the Navrom Delta Ferry or Transfer Delta speed boat service.
Where to Stay
While we didn’t end up staying in Sfรขntu Gheorghe, here is my shortlist:
- Pensiunea Delta Drill
- Casa Condrat (Contact: +40 749 304 914)
- Casa Delia (Contact: +40 740 932 315).
Welcomed like we're part of the family and spoilt with delicious food, we can highly recommend a stay at Casa Vera in Tudor Vladimirescu
What else is essential to know when visiting the Danube Delta?
- As a biosphere reserve, the Danube Delta requires a visitor’s permit. If your accommodation or tour operator does not arrange the permit on your behalf, you must obtain one yourself. You can apply for a permit online.
- Bring cash. While some locations may accept card payments, they are the exception, especially as you venture further away from Tulcea. Several banks have ATMs in Tulcea, so you can withdraw cash in town before heading into the Delta.
- Bring sunscreen and a hat. The sun can be intense (even in Spring and Autumn), and shade is limited when out on the water or exploring the Delta on foot. Also, bring mosquito repellent (especially in Summer).
- Pack layers for cooler nights and windy days. The weather can change quickly, and temperatures may drop significantly in the evening, even after a warm day.
- If you hire a canoe or kayak, bring a dry sack to protect your belongings from water splashes and unexpected rain.
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Feature image by Marian Strinoiu on Unsplash
