Ultimate Montenegro: The perfect (car free) 14-day itinerary for first timers

If a country has mountain in its name, can you guess its main topographical feature? Of course. But with towering mountains, you also get deep river gorges, stunning lakes and a beautiful rugged coastline along the Adriatic. Welcome to Crna Gora/Montenegro (which means Black Mountain).

Today’s article is jam-packed with all the key things you need to know to explore this fascinating country – at your own pace and without a car. We even put together an itinerary that takes you to all our favourite spots in 14 days (or more). Montenegro has everything you need, whether you love the great outdoors, history, or delicious food.

Best time to visit Montenegro

When to visit Montenegro generally depends on where you want to go:

• If you want to explore the Adriatic coast, avoid the European summer holidays, especially July and August when Serbian and Russian families flock to the Adriatic (and you have a gazillion cruise ships anchored in the Bay of Kotor).
• If you want to hike in the mountainous national parks, avoid the winter months (November to March), as the trails are inaccessible.

May, June and September are great months to explore the country. Temperatures are pleasant, with good chances for clear, sunny days and fewer crowds. Check out Weather Spark for year-round climate information on Montenegro – you can change your destination at the top right.

If you want to explore Kotor and the surrounding area, you may also want to time your visit when there are no cruise ships in port (or at least only one). The old town of Kotor is very small, and it’s a very different experience with(out) thousands of cruise ship tourists.

How to get to Montenegro

Montenegro has two international airports – in the capital, Podgorica, and Tivat, in the Bay of Kotor:

• Podgorica (IATA: TGD | Official website | Google Maps location) is serviced year-round by nonstop flights from Europe, the Middle East, the South Caucasus, and Central Asia.
• Tivat (IATA: TIV | Official website | Google Maps location) has a limited number of year-round flights from other European destinations but gets very busy during the summer, with seasonal flights from all over Europe, the Middle East and the South Caucasus.

Another option is to fly into and out of Dubrovnik (IATA: DBV | Official website | Google Maps location) in Croatia. The airport is less than 20km from the Montenegrin border. I recommend the transfer service from Dubrovnik Airport to Kotor using HappyToVisit.

For the best prices on airfares, we recommend to check Skyscanner.

How to get around Montenegro (without a car)

You don’t need a car to explore Montenegro. While the country is mountainous and journeys take longer, travelling around Montenegro by train and bus is feasible and allows you to thoroughly enjoy the stunning scenery. At the same time, someone else has their eyes pinned on the road (or tracks).

Train travel in Montenegro

Let’s start with the easy one. There are only two railway lines currently operating in Montenegro; both are run by state-controlled rail transport operator Željeznički Prevoz Crne Gore (ZPCG):

• the line that connects the seaside town of Bar (and Montenegro’s capital, Podgorica) with the Serbian capital, Belgrade (we share our experience making the journey in our Bar-Belgrade Railway guide), and
• the train line between Podgorica and Nikšić (which passes through the valley below the Ostrog Monastery – learn about a day/overnight trip to this holy site in our Cetinje travel guide).

The ZPCG website has up-to-date timetables (and fares). Tickets can be bought at all train stations and from the train conductor.

Bus travel in Montenegro

We found Busticket4Me most beneficial when it came to finding timetables and fares. You can even book bus tickets online. Just be aware that you still need to

• check-in at the bus station (and pay a station fee)
• print off your bus ticket if you have ordered it online (possible when you check in and usually included in the station fee), and
• pay a luggage fee if you put your luggage in the hold.

The station and luggage fees are only a Euro each (per person and item, respectively).

Buses stop frequently and can be waived down at stops along the roadside. In this case, you pay your fare (including the luggage fee) on the bus.

Taxis and Rental Cars in Montenegro

Taxis and rental cars are good options where buses and trains don’t go frequently (and it’s too far to walk or cycle):

• Base rates for taxis are usually EUR1-2, depending on location, plus EUR1 per km. Unless you take a taxi in a larger city, be prepared to pay cash, as many taxi drivers prefer cash and don’t accept card payments.
• You don’t need to hire a car for your entire trip around the country. We only hired one twice – for a day to explore the area around Kotor and for two days to explore the area around Bar and Skadar Lake.

If you’re driving yourself, be aware that many roads are windy and, at times, very narrow. Drivers in Montenegro tend to be more erratic. If you get caught in an accident, call the police and get a report for your rental car provider’s insurance—no matter where or how minor (we learned that the hard way).

How much should the budget be for Montenegro?

We found Montenegro reasonably affordable compared to the USA, England, Australia, and New Zealand. For all the details on what to consider for accommodation, food, transportation, and experiences and how to save a buck or two, check out our Travel Budget Guide for Montenegro.

Your ultimate 14-Day Montenegro itinerary

Our self-guided itinerary takes you from the fjord-like Bay of Kotor and Montenegro’s old capital, Cetinje, to the coast of the Southern Adriatic and the water lilies and bird life of Skadar Lake. Then, we head inland on a breathtaking rail journey through deep river gorges and high up into majestic mountains with crystal-clear lakes and challenging hiking and mountain bike trails. Sounds awesome? Let’s get into it.

We recommend to divide your 14 days into 3-4 night stays in four different locations:

Map of Accommodation, Points of Interest, Eateries and Transport

Below is a map of the recommended accommodations, points of interest, eateries, and transport terminals or stops mentioned in this article.

Days 1-4: Bay of Kotor

Let’s start with the journey from the airport to your first stop – Kotor.

Tivat Airport (TIV) to Kotor

Taxis and private shuttles between Tivat Airport and Kotor start at EUR30. You can book one in advance with SunTransfers. To save some cash, walk to the Tivat Bus Station [Google Maps location] – a flat 1.5 kilometres / 20 minutes along a busier road – and take the bus to Kotor. Bus fares cost around EUR3 (plus station and luggage fees). Taxis and intercity buses travel through the tunnel between Tivat and Kotor, with taxis taking 10-15 minutes to Kotor Old Town, pending traffic, and buses around 20 minutes to the Kotor Intercity Bus Station [Google Maps location].

Podgorica Airport (TGD) to Kotor

Taxis and private shuttles between Podgorica Airport and Kotor start at EUR85 (and take around 1 1/2 hours, pending traffic). You can book one in advance with SunTransfers. To save some cash, take a bus from the Intercity Bus Station in Podgorica [Google Maps location] to Kotor (EUR8-9 plus fees, about 2 hours). To get to the airport’s bus station, take a taxi (costs EUR12) or the train to Podgorica (EUR2). The little train station outside the airport [Google Maps location] is a flat 1.5 kilometres / 20 minutes walk away along the quiet airport road (stay to the left of the road bridge that crosses the tracks). Check the ZPCG website for departures (from Aerodrom to Podgorica), as trains aren’t as frequent (and often late).

Dubrovnik (DBV) to Kotor

There is no direct bus service between Dubrovnik Airport and Montenegro, so you’d have to first travel to Dubrovnik’s Intercity Bus Station [Google Maps location], using the public Libertas bus (routes 11, 27 or 38) or the Platanus Airport Shuttle. The bus service from Dubrovnik to Montenegro is not the best – overbooking and long delays are frequent. We even encountered a bus driver who smoked while steering the bus – not much fun if you’re a non-smoker sitting right behind them. Thus, the most sensible transfer mode from Dubrovnik Airport to Montenegro would be a taxi/private transfer. You can book one in advance through Happy To Visit.

Where to stay in Kotor

Kotor is located at the southern end of the (inner) bay (which looks like a bow tie if you look at it on a map). There are literally hundreds of accommodation options dotted around this part of the bay, with local buses connecting Kotor and the villages along the bay shore. So, you don’t need to stay in the Old Town of Kotor, especially if you’re on a tighter budget.

Where to eat in/around Kotor

Our top three eateries in and around Kotor were:

• BBQ Tanjga is an affordable and welcoming grill joint between Kotor Old Town and the Intercity Bus Station, serving traditional Balkan fare.
• Restaurant Mondo, a friendly waterfront eatery in Dobrota, serves delicious seafood dishes.
• Restoran Mademoiselle, our favourite in Prčanj, serves lunch, dinner, and a good selection of wines at the water’s edge.

Days 4-7: Cetinje

Kotor to Cetinje

Travelling to Cetinje—your second stop on our itinerary—is easy. There are frequent intercity buses between Kotor and Cetinje via Budva, and the journey takes about 1 1/2 hours.

Where to stay in Cetinje

Cetinje is easy to explore on foot or by bike, and you can even get to Lipa Cave by bike or explore the mountain bike trails in Lovćen National Park from here. I have therefore included accommodation options that provide a bike free of charge.

Where to eat in Cetinje

You’ll be surprised by the value for money (and friendly service) you get in Cetinje. Here are our top three choices:

• Vjerina Kužina – for the best crepes in Montenegro
• Montenegro Food Bar – small eatery next to the Intercity Bus Station serving surprisingly good food – try the Montenegro Burger
• Restoran TavèRna – a lovely traditional restaurant around the corner from the Money Museum.

Days 7-10: (Stari) Bar, Ulcinj and Skadar Lake National Park

Cetinje to Bar

On to your third stop on our itinerary: the Southern Adriatic coast and Skadar Lake. The bus journey from Cetinje to Bar takes about 2 hours. Once in Bar, there are frequent connections by

• bus between Bar and Ulcinj (taking around 30 minutes) and
• train between Bar and Virpazar on Skadar Lake (taking 25 minutes).

Alternatively, you could hire a car for a day or two to explore the area more flexibly. If you hire a car, be aware that Montenegrin drivers (or Serbian drivers on holiday) are not the most courteous. Secondary roads tend to be narrow, requiring frequent stops to let oncoming traffic pass.

What to see and do in/around Bar

Stari Bar and Ulcinj

Most travellers to Montenegro explore Budva and Sveti Stefan. While beautiful, they are both very touristy. If you’re after a more offbeat experience, head further down the coast and explore the stretch of coast between Bar and the border with Albania and the area around Skadar Lake.

Bar is not the most exciting place, but its ancient Old Town is very worthwhile checking out, so visit Stari Bar [Google Maps location]. The old walled city is about 5km east of the modern-day port town (it is best to take a taxi to get there and walk back down). Travelling further south along the coast gets you to Ulcinj, its walled Old Town overlooking the harbour [Google Maps location] and a distinctly Albanian feel. The nearby Salt Pans [Google Maps location] – which date back to Roman times and are a bird(er’s) paradise – and the olive groves on the way to Valdanos Beach [Google Maps location] make for great days out on a bicycle.

Skadar Lake and Pavlova Strana

North-east of Bar, explore the sprawling Skadar Lake with its carpets of water lilies and picturesque Pavlova Strana overlooking a bend in the Rijeka Crnojevića River. Boat excursions on Skadar Lake leave from the old bridge in Virpazar [Google Maps location], a tiny harbour settlement with its own train stop on the Bar-Belgrade Railway (a flat 1km walk away – Google Maps location).

The Pavlova Strana viewpoint and nearby Rijeka Crnojevića village can only be reached by car. For a gorgeous drive overlooking the lake, turn left off the M2 just after the Virpazar turnoff [Google Maps location]. Follow the road up the serpentines, through Komarno and Donja Sela, to Rijeka Crnojevića (a leisurely 24km drive – Google Maps location). From there, it’s a short 3.5km drive to the Pavlova Strana viewpoint [Google Maps location]. If you want to experience the meandering river from a boat, the excursions start in Rijeka Crnojevića next to the old footbridge. Return the same way you came or do a big loop, passing the southern outskirts of Podgorica before joining the M2 and crossing Skadar Lake on your way back to Bar.

Where to stay in Bar/Ulcinj

Bar is a port town and not very pretty. We preferred Ulcinj. That said, if you don’t want to hire a car, it is best to base yourself in Bar, as it’s easy to visit Ulcinj from there by bus and Skadar Lake by train (each is about 30 minutes away).

Where to eat in (Stari) Bar, Ulcinj and around Skadar Lake

Narrowing it down to our top three wasn’t easy, but here they are:

• Restaurant Cevapdzinica Dino, a lovely family-owned restaurant on the cobbled street near the walled city in Stari Bar
• Byrektore Pelivan, an unassuming small local eatery in Ulcinj with delicious byreks
• Macalov Brijeg, a small café overlooking Skadar Lake on the road between Virpazar and Rijeka Crnojevića (requires car).

Half day trip on the Bar-Belgrade Railway

The journey from Bar to the country’s north is one of Earth’s most incredible train journeys. After crossing Skadar Lake and leaving the capital, Podgorica, the train slowly ascends through deep river gorges into the mountains via myriads of tunnels and bridges (including the famous Mala Rijeka Viaduct).

Pending your travel time (between mid-April and mid-October), up to three train departures a day would allow you to experience the stunning scenery. The journey to Kolašin takes 2 1/2 hours (though it is often delayed by at least 30 minutes). Mojkovac is another 20 minutes further north. Check our Bar Belgrade Railway Guide for more details.

Where to eat in Kolašin or Mojkovac

On our itinerary, Kolašin/Mojkovac are only stopovers on your way to Žabljak. But if you’re hungry, you might want to check out any of these:

• Hermes, a welcoming restaurant at the edge of Kolašin, serves delicious, traditional food
• Vigor at Wulfenia Hotel, a highly-rated fine dining joint within the Wulfenia Hotel in Kolašin
• Poslastičarnica Buregdžinica “Zora”, unassuming local restaurant in Mojkovac serving delicious burek.

Days 10-14: Žabljak, Durmitor National Park and Tara River Canyon

Kolašin or Mojkovac to Žabljak

Did you enjoy the train ride from the coast over Skadar Lake up into the mountains? And how different do Kolašin and Mojkovac feel? It’s more like Switzerland than Montenegro, with much more pleasant temperatures, even in summer.

There is no direct bus connection from Kolašin or Mojkovac to Žabljak. Instead, you have the following two options:

• Via Podgorica: Take the bus or train back to Podgorica and the bus from there to Žabljak. There are multiple connections a day, and you get to see the stunning mountain scenery twice (albeit from the highway if you take the bus). The journey costs EUR17-18.50 (plus fees) and takes 4 1/2 hours from Mojkovac (4 hours from Kolašin) – not including wait time in Podgorica.
• Via Pljevlja: Continue your journey by bus to Pljevlja and change there for the bus to Žabljak. There is only one connection per day. However, the journey will allow you to experience the crossing of the famous Tara Bridge/Đurđevića Tara Bridge [Google Maps location] – another engineering masterpiece. This journey costs EUR14 (plus fees) and takes 3 1/2 hours from Mojkovac (4 hours from Kolašin) – not including wait time in Pljevlja.

Make sure to check the bus connections and train timetable before your trip.

What to see and do in/around Žabljak

Durmitor National Park Hikes

Žabljak is the gateway to Durmitor National Park. A UNESCO site since 1980, the park is home to countless challenging but rewarding hiking trails.

Our favourite was this 16km loop to the Ledena Pecina Ice Cave. With more than 930 metres in elevation gain and some near-vertical sections, this was one of the most demanding hikes we’ve ever done, but the stunning scenery made more than up for the effort. We recommend doing the loop in a clockwise direction as there is a near vertical section just after the ice cave (which is easier to do down than up). As the name suggests, the cave has ice formations all year round (you can even see them from above the cave). While the hike is already rewarding, some hikers enter the cave to check out the ice formations close-up. The path down, however, is very slippery, so enter at your own risk.

Like Kolašin and Mojkovac, the temperatures in Žabljak and Durmitor National Park are much more pleasant, with a comfortable 20 degrees Celsius at the height of summer, so bring warmer layers, especially if you come in spring or autumn. For climate information all year round, check out Weatherspark.

Durmitor Ring Bike Ride

If you feel more comfortable in the saddle, you could hire an eBike/MTB [Google Maps location] and ride the 77km Durmitor Ring, one of Montenegro’s most epic drives/rides. We recommend doing it in an anti-clockwise direction as this will allow you to cover the steepest section, just after Bosača, first. With an elevation gain of 2,040 metres, expect to take around 5 hours (not including breaks).

Tara River Gorge Rafting Adventures

Tara River Gorge—you may have crossed it via the Đurđevića Tara Bridge—which cuts through the northern part of Durmitor National Park. At its deepest point, 1,300 metres deep, the Tara River Gorge is Europe’s second deepest river canyon (and third deepest in the world after the Sulak Canyon in Russia and the Grand Canyon in the United States). The canyon is a popular rafting hotspot, boasting over 100 rapids and cascades with water from 14 tributaries.

Where to stay in Žabljak

Žabljak is the gateway to Durmitor National Park, though the park entrance is a 2-kilometre walk southwest of the small town. Keep that in mind when you select your accommodation. Here are my Žabljak accommodation recommendations:

Where to eat in Žabljak

Being more a village than a town, Žabljak lacks many good dining options. The local Pekara/Bakery, behind the Voli Supermarket, was always packed with people, but our absolute favourite was the Durmitor Inn, a small family business that has since permanently closed. Other worthwhile options in town and along the ring road include:

• Mountain Bite is a small outdoor eatery serving delicious sandwiches (and Lavazza coffee).
• Café Paradiso, opposite the bus station
• Vilina Jama is a small coffee shop/bar along the Durmitor Ring that serves Turkish coffee, cold drinks, and local cheese.

Most eateries in Žabljak are only open during the summer season, from about mid-April to mid-September. If you’re visiting during other times, be prepared to fully self-cater.

Žabljak to the Airport

All great adventures must end, and our Montenegro highlights tour is no exception.

If you fly out of Podgorica (TGD), frequent buses between Žabljak and Podgorica’s Intercity Bus Station take approximately 2 1/2 hours. From there, go to the airport using the above instructions in reverse.

There are also seasonal intercity buses between Žabljak and Kotor/Tivat. So if you’re leaving from Tivat (TIV), first take the intercity bus (taking up to 4 hours), then follow our instructions above in reverse. Likewise, if you’re flying out of Dubrovnik (DBV), travel to Kotor/Tivat and then take a taxi/private transfer. As the buses between Žabljak and Kotor/Tivat are not frequent (and delays are common), confirm the up-to-date timetable at the Bus Station in Kotor before you leave the city on day 4. If the schedule doesn’t align with your flight, travel via Podgorica instead (or, even better, book your return flight from Podgorica).

What to pack for your Montenegro trip

Given Montenegro’s topography, temperatures can vary significantly depending on where you go. We visited the country in July, with 30+ degrees Celsius along the Adriatic coast but a much cooler 20 degrees Celsius in Durmitor National Park. Check Weatherspark for year-round climate data at your destination.

Check out our recommended carry-on packing lists if you want to be prepared for any weather and still pack light.

What food to try in Montenegro

When visiting Montenegro, make sure you try some typical Montenegrin or Balkan dishes, including

• Cevapi (small, minced meat sausages made without skin)
• Burek (filo pastry filled with meat, cheese or spinach) – locals have it with ajran, a savoury yoghurt drink
• Ispod Saca (veal, lamb or goat meat slowly roasted under hot coals with potatoes, carrots, and onions)
• Buzara (a seafood stew with red or white wine sauce)
• Gavice (small fried fish)
• Grilled fish from Skadar Lake, and
• local varieties of cheese (for example, Durmitorski skorup, Njeguški sir or Pljevaljski sir) and prosciutto (the village of Njeguši between Kotor and Cetinje is famous for it).

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