When people plan a trip to Montenegro, their itinerary’s almost guaranteed toย include the Bay of Kotor and/or Budva. They may even venture to the sights along the Southern Adriatic Coast (to Lake Skadar, Stari Bar or even Ulcinj). Yet one destination that is only 12 kilometres away from Kotor (as the crow flies) is often forgotten: Cetinje. If you’ve landed here wondering whether Cetinje is worth a visit and what’s there to see and do, you’ve come to the right place. We’ll talk about all the cool things we discovered when stumbling upon this great little town off the beaten tourist path. Even better: with prices a fraction of those along the Adriatic Coast, it could even be an excellent base for a more affordable holiday.
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Cetinje was founded by Ivan Crnojević (Ivan the Black) in 1482
Why Cetinje is worth a visit
Podgorica might be Montenegro’s capital today, but Cetinje was a capital city for over 430 years. No other place in Montenegro is so profoundly linked with the nation’s history.
In the 15th century, the Crnojeviฤ dynasty ruled over (large parts of) Zeta – one of three regions of modern-day Montenegro. Ivan Crnojeviฤ (Ivan the Black) made Cetinje his capital in 1482 and founded an orthodox monastery here in 1484. Crna Gora (as Montenegro is called in the local language) traces part of its name to the Crnojeviฤ dynasty.
In place of the original Cetinje Monastery (which was destroyed) a new one was built in 1701 | Image courtesy of Velimir Marinkovic on Pixabay
Strategically positioned between the Venetian and Ottoman empires, Zeta’s territory was constantly threatened with invasion over the following centuries, particularly by the Ottomans. During that time, the monastery in Cetinje was destroyed, and the town’s development stagnated.
Portrait of Petar II Petrović-Njegoš - one of the most revered figures of Montenegro's history - in the Historical Museum
Cetinje regained importance from the early 1700s under the Petroviฤ dynasty, especially in the 19th century under Petar II Petroviฤ-Njegoลก. It continued as Montenegro’s capital under Nikola I Petroviฤ-Njegoลก, who later became (the first and only) King of Montenegro, reigning until 1916. As a European country’s capital, Cetinje experienced a building boom in the 19th and early 20th centuries. The diplomatic missions from that time are still some of the most beautiful buildings in town.
More opulent buildings in Cetinje include the former French Embassy
If you want toย better understand Montenegro and, indeed, the history of the Balkan Peninsula, you can’t miss Cetinje. This small town on the other side of Mt Lovฤen (one of the mountains surrounding Kotor) is Montenegro’s historical and cultural centre. Even today, it is the home of theย Ministry of Culture and Media, theย National Library,ย and the State Archives. Even the President of Montenegro has his official residence in Cetinje, in the Blue Palace.
Cetinje is the historic and cultural heart of Montenegro and makes for a great holiday base due to its central location
With its central location, Cetinje makes for a great place to base yourself during your Montenegro holiday, especially if you come here in the Summer. At almost 700 metres above sea level, summer temperatures in Cetinje are much more pleasant than in the holiday hot spots along the coast. Even in peak season, accommodation here is very affordable (and better quality). And itโs easy to visit other parts of the country on day trips.
Map of Accommodation, Points of Interest, Eateries and Transport
Below is a map of the recommended accommodations, points of interest, eateries and transport terminals/stops mentioned in this article.
How much time to spend in Cetinje
Cetinje is one of those places that grows on you the longer you stay. At first glance, it didn’t seem to offer much, but the more we explored, the more we discovered. We left thinking, what an underrated gem.
We recommend staying in Cetinje for at least three nights. That way, you can spend a whole day exploring the old capital (and maybe nearby Lipa Cave) and have time for a day trip to either Lovฤen National Park or the Ostrog Monastery – more on those below.
What to see and do in/around Cetinje
Given its historic importance, Cetinje punches way above its weight regarding the number of museums and historic places. You’ll be genuinely spoilt for choice.
Cetinje Monastery
We recommend starting your exploration at the serene Cetinje Monastery, (re)built in 1701 near where the original monastery once stood. It is home to some essential Christian relics, including the right hand of St. John The Baptist. Entrance is free.
After your visit to the monastery grounds, make sure to head up to the tomb of Danilo I, Metropolitan of Cetinje, the founder of the dynasty that ruled Montenegro until 1916. The spectacular views over Cetinje from here are well worth the 15-minute climb up the hill behind the monastery.
Cetinje Monastery is home to precious icons and relics, including the right hand of St. John The Baptist
National Museum
Njegoลก Museum Biljarda
The National Museum of Montenegro comprises several museums in Cetinje, all located within a few blocks of each other.
Opposite the monastery, you’ll find the Njegoลก Museum Biljarda (Njegoลกev Muzej Biljarda), the former residence of Petar II Petroviฤ-Njegoลก (and named after the billiard table you’ll find inside). The Biljarda is focused on the life and work of Petar II Petroviฤ-Njegoลก and showcases many personal objects, including furniture, weaponry, paintings and richly embroidered garments. It is also home to a relief model of Montenegro – a great way to understand Montenegro’s varied topography before exploring more of the country.
The Njegoš Museum Biljarda is named after Petar II Petrović-Njegoš' favourite game
King Nikola’s Museum
On the other side of the Biljarda, you’ll find King Nikola’s Museum (Muzej Kralja Nikole), the home of Petar II Petroviฤ-Njegoลก and his family after they moved here from the Biljarda. With period furnishings galore, it provides a glimpse into the life of the most essential ruling family of the country (make sure to download the audioguide app). The royal library showcases, among others, a copy of the first book printed in Cetinje in 1493.
Ethnographic Museum
Opposite King Nikola’s Museum and housed in the former Serbian Embassy, the beautiful Ethnographic Museum (Etnografski Muzej) introduces visitors to the diverse cultures and traditions of the people who call Montenegro home. Its well-curated exhibitions include intricately embroidered traditional costumes, stunningly crafted jewellery, and beautifully carved wooden objects.
This beautifully crafted traditional costume can be found in Cetinje's Ethnographic Museum
Historical Museum
With collections showcasing Montenegro’s history from the earliest settlement to modern times, the Historical Museum (Istorijski Muzej) has many interesting exhibits and just the right amount of detail (in English) to better understand Montenegro’s history. We spent a good few hours here, roaming the different halls.
Entry fees range from EUR3 to EUR8 per museum. A pass for all exhibitions of the National Museums costs EUR20.
Learn more about the complex history of Montenegro and former Yugoslavia at the Historical Museum
Money Museum
Another museum we can’t recommend highly enough is the Money Museum (Muzej Novca). We stumbled upon it by chance on our walk around town near the former French Embassy. We wondered why Montenegro used the Euro without being a member of the European Union, so we popped in and asked.
The Central Bank of Montenegro runs the museum and is thus free to enter, and the passionate staff are very happy to guide you around (in perfect English). Not only did we get an answer to our question. We were also shown historic bank notes, jewellery made of coins, special edition gold coins, a still-working minting press and much more.
Cetinje's Money Museum is a great place to learn more about Montenegro's currency history
Lipa Cave
Lipa Cave (Lipska Peฤina) is one of the largest cave systems in Montenegro. A bit too developed for our liking – with a little train taking visitors through parts of the cave – it’s still worth a visit. The temperature in the cave is around 10 degrees Celsius all year round, so bring a jumper/jacket and wear long pants to stay warm, even on a hot day. Tours of the cave take about an hour. Book your cave tour in advance, especially if you visit in peak season and/or want to make the day’s last tour.
Located only 5 kilometres outside of Cetinje, the cave is easily reachable by bicycle or taxi: Leave Cetinje along the M2.3 towards Podgorica, turn right towards the village of Lipa Dobrska after a few hundred meters and pass the National Restaurant Belveder (a great place to stop for lunch).
Lipa Cave, one of the largest cave systems in Montenegro, is just outside of Cetinje
Day trip from Cetinje โ Lovฤen National Park
Mausoleum of Petar II Petroviฤ-Njegoลก
Lovฤen is one of five national parks in Montenegro and one of the oldest. The top of one of its peaks, Jezerski Vrh (1,657m), is the location of the Mausoleum of Petar II Petroviฤ-Njegoลก (yep, the same one who lived at the Biljarda and the palace that now houses King Nikola’s Museum).
While climbing to the tomb (over 461 stairs) requires some fitness, you’re rewarded with spectacular 360-degree views. So, pick a day with nice weather. And mind your steps, especially when taking photos โ the path has no barriers, and the mountain drops a few hundred meters on either side.
Enjoy 360 degree views over much of Montenegro from Jezerski Vrh in Lovćen National Park | Image courtesy of Til Man Yab on Unsplash
Hiking and mountain bike trails
Lovฤen National Park is also home to numerous hiking and mountain bike trails.
We recommend this loop trail, an easy 9km/3 hour hike (230m elevation gain/loss) that starts and ends in the small settlement of Ivanova Korita by the Hotel Ivanov Konak [Google Maps location]. Walk the trail in an anti-clockwise direction to walk the sunniest section early in the day. You’ll see the Bay of Kotor around Tivat, the Adriatic, the surrounding mountain peaks, and even Skadar Lake.
Hikers in Lovćen National Park are rewarded with stunning views like these | Image courtesy of Michal KLAJBAN
How to get to Lovฤen National Park (without your car)
If you want to visit the mausoleum or hike one of the trails from Ivanova Korita, we recommend hiring a bicycle โ your accommodation may even provide one for free. From Cetinje, ascent along the R-13 to
- the parking lot at the foot of Jezerski Vrh is 870 metres over 20 kilometres, or
- the trailhead at Ivanova Korita is 620 metres over 15 kilometres.
You return the same way you came. The R-13 road, while asphalted, has quite a few hairpin turns, so take your time and always pay attention.
If mountain biking is not your thing, you can hire a taxi. Expect to pay EUR10-15 one way from/to Cetinje (but confirm that with your accommodation host and driver). There is also a small entry fee for the National Park itself.
Day trip from Cetinje โ Ostrog Monastery
Ostrog Monastery was founded in the 17th century by St. Basil of Ostrog, the most revered Orthodox Saint in the Balkans, who died in 1671. The Upper Monastery is carved into the mountainside, some 1,000 meters above sea level, resembling an eagle’s nest. Its white walls can be seen from far away.
Signs lead you from the Ostrog train station to the monastery (the light speck with orange around it at the bottom of the cliff)
The Upper Monastery also holds St Basilโs remains in a small chapel, and every year, more than a million people come to Ostrog to pay their respect, give thanks and pray for miracles. Not all of them are Orthodox Christians by the way: people from all walks of life and religious beliefs are welcome at Ostrog.
Ostrog Monastery welcomes people from all walks of life, no matter what their religious beliefs
How to get to Ostrog Monastery (without your own car)
Ostrog Monastery can be easily visited on a day trip from Cetinje:
- First, take an intercity bus from Cetinje to Podgorica (45 minutes) and then the train from Podgorica towards Nikลกiฤ, getting off at Ostrog (another 45 minutes).
- From the Ostrog train station, itโs a steep hike of about 2.5 kilometres/280 meters elevation gain to the Lower Monastery (and an additional kilometre/190 meters elevation gain) to the Upper Monastery (via steps through the forest). Cross the railway tracks and immediately turn left onto the path up to the monastery. Follow the signs from there (or use MapsMe for directions if in doubt).
From the Ostrog train station, it's a steep 2km hike to the lower Ostrog Monastery
We recommend taking the first bus/train combination. Not only will you avoid the midday heat on your hike up, but you will also have more time to explore both the Upper and Lower Monasteries before returning.
Expect to take about 2 hours to get to the Upper Monastery and about an hour back down to the train station โ about 3 hours plus rest stops and your time at the monasteries.
From the lower monastery (barely visible among the trees) it's another 1km to the upper Ostrog Monastery (at the bottom of the cliff)
You return the same way you came: first, take the train to Podgorica, then the bus to Cetinje. Alternatively, you can take the train from Ostrog to Nikลกiฤ and then the bus from Nikลกiฤ to Cetinje. Check the bus timetable and train connections before you go. You can buy your train ticket from the conductor on the train.
In case you wonder, it is possible to stay overnight at Ostrog Monastery. In fact, if you want to attend mass, you won’t have a choice but to stay overnight (or come in your own vehicle). The mass is twice daily, at 06:00 and 18:00. Anyone is welcome to attend (as long as they dress appropriately).
There are dorm rooms (separated by gender) at the Lower and Upper Monasteries (costing EUR10 per person at the Lower Monastery as of December 2024). When we visited, you could also sleep in the courtyard of the Upper Monastery (pending the weather, of course). While the monastery supplies blankets, we recommend bringing your own sleeping bag/mat.
You can overnight in Ostrog but don't expect luxury
What else to be aware of when visiting Ostrog
As mentioned, Ostrog is a holy site, and pilgrims visit it throughout the year. Dress accordingly, covering your shoulders and legs.
Bring your food and water for the day (or overnight stay). There is a restaurant by the lower monastery, but don’t assume it’s open when you visit. Other than that, we only saw a few vending machines. There is a water fountain at the entrance of the upper monastery where you can refill your water bottle.
When you visit the monastery, it is a tradition to bring offerings (food, clothing, soap or blankets). There is a basket just outside the cave chapel holding the relics of St. Basil, where you can leave your offering.
It gets very busy on feast days, and the monastery is at its busiest during the days leading up to and on 12 May, when the Feast Day of St Basil of Ostrog is celebrated. While witnessing the festivities may sound like a good idea, you will also share the space with tens of thousands of worshipers.
Ostrog is a holy site so dress accordingly, covering your shoulders and legs
How to get to and around Cetinje
There are frequent intercity buses between
- Kotor and Cetinje (via Budva) โ the journey takes approximately 1 1/2 hours;
- Podgorica and Cetinje โ the journey takes around 45 minutes;
and many other places around Montenegro.
Cetinje is compact and easy to explore on foot or by bicycleโyour accommodation may even include one free of charge. When we visited, an electricย tourist trainย vehicleย started at the squareย outsideย King Nikola’s Museum and passedย all the essential sights.
Cetinje is a small town, easily explored on foot or by bicycle
Where to stay in Cetinje
Cetinje is a great little town – whether just for a few nights or as a base for your entire holiday in Montenegro. Many of the accommodation options around town are owned by locals who make you feel like family. Here are my recommendations:
| Name | Property Features | Type | Price Indicator | Book Now |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Apartman Donji Kraj | 24-hour front desk Fully equipped kitchen | Apartment | $$ | Book Now |
| Apartmani vuk | Excellent location 24-hour front desk Packed lunches are available | Apartment | $ | Book Now |
| Brvnara Borovik | Certain documented environmental practices implemented at property. Mountain and garden views | Family Bungalow | $$ | Book Now |
Where and what to eat in/around Cetinje
If you dislike the service and prices in some of the more touristy spots in Montenegro, you’ll be surprised by the friendliness and value for money you find in Cetinje. Here are my recommendations:
- Vjerina Kuลพina – for the best crepes in Montenegro
- Restoran TavรจRna – a lovely place just around the corner from the Money Museum
- Ugostiteljska radnja – try some local dishes in this excellent centrally located restaurant
- Restoran Peฤenjara Verige – another great place to try the local cuisine
- National Restaurant Belveder – on the way to/from Lipa Cave.
Local specialities to try to include njeguลกki prลกut (smoked ham) and njeguลกki sir (cheese) – both from the nearby village of Njeguลกi – accompanied by Vranac, Montenegro’s famous red wine.
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