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At dawn, Tortuguero hums with life: Howler monkeys roar from the treetops, herons glide over mirror-like waterways, and the scent of rain-soaked earth lingers in the air. At dusk, thunderous clouds give way to the most stunning sunsets. Tortuguero’s remoteness, with no roads in or out, sets the pace for a slower and more relaxed experience. Sounds like the kind of place you’d like to visit? Our responsible travel guide has all the information you need to experience this paradise independently and affordably.
Are you planning your trip to Tortuguero last-minute?
Find your perfect accommodation in Tortuguero. We recommend these traditional, small-scale and centrally located options:
- Alma Del Bosque Hotel
- Hotel Angsa River View Tortuguero
- House of Rainbow
- H et L
When managing money across countries, we keep fees low and decisions deliberate. We use XE to check exchange rates, Wise to move and spend money internationally, and PocketSmith to track where it all goes.
Buying travel insurance can feel overwhelming. Start by reading our buyer's guide to finding insurance that suits your needs. Then compare options on the Insubuy marketplace (with all the information you need to find the one that's right for you).
Explore the wonders of Tortuguero and beyond with the best tours and activities powered by Viator. We recommend these sustainable options with local providers:
Where is Tortuguero, and why should you visit?
Nestled in the northeastern corner of Costa Rica, Tortuguero is one of the country’s most unique National Parks. Here, rainforests, rivers and 35 kilometres/22 miles of Caribbean coastline converge to create an ecosystem teeming with life. Its beaches are among the world’s largest nesting sites for sea turtles (hence its name, though turtle hunting has been replaced by turtle preservation – more on that below).
Unsurprisingly, Tortuguero is all about wildlife encounters, whether spotting caimans on a dawn canoe ride or observing toucans on a guided night walk. We visited four National Parks and Reserves in Costa Rica, and in Tortugero, we saw our most diverse range of wildlife (with and without a guide). So, if you love observing animals in their natural habitat, make sure to put Tortuguero on your Costa Rica itinerary.
Among the many animals you can observe in Tortuguero are three types of monkeys - capuchin, howler and spider monkeys | Image by Frank Eiffert on Unsplash
Map of Accommodation, Points of Interest, Eateries and Transport
Below is a map of the recommended accommodations, points of interest, eateries, and transport terminals or stops mentioned in this article.
What’s the beach/sea like in Tortuguero?
Unlike Cahuita National Park further south, Tortuguero is not a beach/snorkel/dive destination. Strong rip currents make swimming in the Caribbean Sea inadvisable. Also worth noting: You can’t wander along the beach at night. After sunset, you need to be accompanied by a certified guide.
Tortuguero's beaches are an important nesting site for green sea and leatherback turtles | Image courtesy of Julie Sd on Unsplash
When is the best time to visit Tortuguero?
When you visit Tortuguero matters – in terms of the weather and how big a crowd to expect, and what wildlife you’ll encounter:
- Green sea turtles nest here from June to October, with most hatchlings appearing in September/October.
- Leatherback nesting season, on the other hand, is March to May, with most hatchlings visible in May/June.
- Wetter than other parts of Costa Rica throughout the year, be prepared for frequent rain showers/thunderstorms and at times, low visibility (especially in July, December and January).
Most visitors come to Tortuguero during the northern-hemisphere winter and Easter holiday months – February to April (when it’s driest in Tortuguero) and during the height of the green sea turtle nesting season – July and August. We recommend visiting in May, June or September to November. You may not see turtles nesting, but there is still plenty of wildlife to observe (and fewer crowds).
Bringing a rain poncho is a must when visiting Tortuguero as it's wetter here than in other parts of Costa Rica throughout the year
Want to learn some Spanish before your trip?
You don’t need fluency to find your way around and connect with locals on your travels. But knowing some Spanishcan make everyday situations easier and more meaningful. Busuu offers a structured way to learn the basics of a language before you go, and it’s easy to combine the app with language school studies, too.
What can you see and do in Tortuguero?
National Park Trails
Contrary to most other National Parks in Costa Rica, Tortuguero has only three (short) land trails; most of its trails are waterways.
The Gavilán and Jaguar Trails start just south of Tortuguero village and lead through Primary rainforest along the beach (around 6 km in total). The trail to Cerro Tortuguero, an extinct volcano and the highest point in Tortuguero National Park (with panoramic views along the coast), is located north of the settlement of San Francisco (on the other side of the Tortuguero River). A large part of this 1 km out-and-back trail comprises sturdy, well-constructed stairs (though be mindful of your step when it rains).
For maps, opening hours, and visitor rules, see the official SINAC Tortuguero National Park brochure (PDF).
With its water trails and incredible variety of wildlife, exploring Tortuguero National Park reminded us of our time in the Amazon
There are two types of entry tickets, with two different price points; both can be purchased online on the SINAC website or in person at the National Park Registration office:
- Sector Canales covers the water trails, and the Gavilán and Jaguar trails. This ticket is required when you join one of the boat/canoe/kayak tours (see our recommendations below) or want to hike along the two land-based trails south of the village. The Sector Canales is open from 6:00 to 15:00, though be aware that during morning break (7:00-7:30) and lunch break (12:00-13:00), the National Park Registration office [Google Maps location] is closed.
- The Sector Cerro Tortuguero entry ticket is required to hike to Cerro Tortuguero. The trail is open from 8:00 to 15:30. To reach the trailhead from Tortuguero village, you must purchase a return boat transfer. Boats leave (and return to) the public pier at Tortuguero village several times throughout the day. You pay your return fare in cash at the dock. The National Park entry ticket will be checked as you disembark at the trailhead [Google Maps location].
There are two entry tickets for Tortuguero NP: one for Cerro Tortuguero (with panoramic views over the park) and one for the Sector Canales trails | Image courtesy of Irene Naverán
Wildlife Spotting
Tortuguero National Park is home to an identified 442 bird species (we spotted an osprey, kingfisher, green ibis and several jacanas, among many others), 139 species of mammals (including jaguars, manatees, tapirs, peccaries, sloths and monkeys – we only spotted the latter two), and 118 species of reptiles (we saw caimans, river turtles, basilisks and iguanas).
A guided canoe or kayak tour (best at dawn) is a must for wildlife encounters along the water trails. While motorboat tours cover more ground, they are noisier and too big to access the narrower canals, thus best avoided.
While the three land trails are accessible without a guide, spotting wildlife with a trained eye is easier. Guided day and night walks are available, and if you love birds, dedicated birdwatching tours should hit the spot.
Join an early morning canoe tour to observe caimans, river turtles, sloths, monkeys, birds and many more species
A word about Turtle Tours
During turtle season (March-October), special tours allow visitors to witness the nesting process of sea turtles. Strict regulations are in place to protect the turtles: Certified guides are mandatory; lights and photography are prohibited; and only stages 4-7 of the nesting process are allowed to be observed. Yet despite all this, we decided not to join a Turtle Tour. Here is why:
- Tours last two hours, with time slots from 20:00 to 22:00 and 22:00 to 0:00 (and random allocation of groups between six different sectors along the beach). Most of those two hours are spent waiting in a dedicated area until nesting turtles have been sighted.
- As sightings are confirmed, groups of visitors – one by one, with a maximum of 10 people per group – make their way to the nesting areas. Each group congregates around a nest to watch the nesting process for about 15 minutes before making way for the next group. During those 15 minutes, you will likely experience only one or two of those four observable spawning stages (and it may not be the egg laying).
- Worst of all though (IOHO), is the invasiveness of our human presence: Over those four hours, turtles along the beach are surrounded by up to 1,000 people, who stare at them with special infrared lights as they do what nature intended.
Not really our kind of responsible wildlife encounter. The one positive: Some of the money spent on these tours goes towards turtle conservation efforts. But a far less intrusive way would be to visit the Sea Turtle Conservancy and adopt a sea turtle.
How long to stay in Tortuguero – Sample 2-Day Itinerary
We recommend spending (at least) two full days (3 nights) in Tortuguero.
Day 1
Start your day at sunrise with a guided canoe or kayak tour through Tortuguero’s quiet canals. If your tour does not include the National Park entrance (most don’t), purchase your Sector Canales ticket before you leave your accommodation (you’ll receive an instant e-mail confirmation with a booking reference to show at the entrance). These tours take 2.5-3 hours, so you’ll be back by 8:30/9:00.
After breakfast, lace up for a self-guided hike along the Gavilán and Jaguar trails. As you approach the National Park entrance from Tortuguero village, you’ll notice rubber boots available for rent. On very wet days, the beginning of the Gavilán trail (where most guided walking tours hang out) might be muddy, hence the rubber boots. We came here in July (when it rained a lot) and were comfortable in our own shoes — Paul wore his Xero Shoes Scrambler Trail Low WP, which handled the wet and muddy sections well, while I wore hiking shoes with a bit more structure and support. If conditions are particularly wet, or you prefer to keep your feet completely dry, renting rubber boots at the entrance is still a practical option.
Tip Despite the foliage cover, it can get very hot during the day, so bring plenty of water. Stick to the marked path – you’re in primary rainforest, and it’s called Jaguar trail for a reason. On that note: there is an information board at the park entrance on what to do if you encounter one – make sure to stop and read it (while very rare, you never know).
Rest in the afternoon heat. Finally, as your energy allows, join a guided night walk.
Doing all the activities in the Sector Canales on the same day means you only pay for the more expensive National Park ticket once.
Tortuguero National Park is home to an increasing population of jaguars - stick to the marked path and know what to do in the rare case you encounter one
Day 2
Today, you can sleep a little longer. Check the weather forecast (and boat schedule) during breakfast to determine the best time to hike to Cerro Tortuguero. Rain means low clouds and limited visibility from the top of Cerro Tortuguero, but the hike up is still magical, whatever the weather. Wear sturdy, comfortable shoes with good traction, and bring water and a rain poncho. And don’t forget to buy your Sector Cerro Tortuguero ticket before you set off – your ticket will be checked at the trailhead.
The climb from the disembarkation point is short but steep, with raised walkways and solid stairs for most of the way. Make sure to stop every once in a while to look for wildlife. The top viewing platform offers panoramic views over Tortuguero National Park on a clear day.
(Back) In Tortuguero, explore the village, browse small craft stalls, and visit the Sea Turtle Conservancy (open daily from 8:00–12:00 and 13:00–17:00; entry USD 2.50 per person) to learn more about its essential work.
While mystical in the rain, it's best to climb Cerro Tortuguero in good weather
Want to book your Tortuguero Tour/s in advance?
All tours can be organised once you’re in Tortuguero. But if you prefer to book your activities in advance, here are our recommendations:
How to get to/from Tortuguero
Tortuguero village (with about 1,500 permanent inhabitants, many of them of Afro-Caribbean descent) is the main access point to the National Park. No roads lead to Tortuguero. It can only be accessed by boat or small aircraft, which makes the journey as memorable as the destination.
From/to San José
The cheapest overland option is a bus from the Gran Terminal del Caribe Bus Station in San José [Google Maps location] to Cariari [Google Maps location], which takes about 2 hours, followed by a bus from Cariari [Google Maps location] to the dock in La Pavona [Google Maps location], which takes another hour and 15 minutes.
Arrive at the Gran Terminal del Caribe an hour before your bus departs and buy tickets for the bus to Cariari at the ticket office inside the station building (walk up the ramp passing the food outlets and shops on either side). Tickets for the bus to La Pavona must be bought at the ticket office at the Coopetraca Bus Terminal.
Tip While the bus from Cariari to La Pavona officially departs at the Coopetraca Bus Terminal, it may (beforehand) stop at the bus terminal where your bus from San José arrives. So, rather than rushing with luggage from one terminal to the other (they are about 500 metres apart), keep an eye out for the Coopetraca bus when you arrive in Cariari.
The cheapest way to get to Tortuguero from San José is by taking two buses and a boat
From La Pavona, speedboats navigate the Suerte River downstream. After joining one of the (wider) canals, and briefly stopping at settlements along the Tortuguero Lagoon (to let off locals and guests), the boat arrives at the public pier in Tortuguero village [Google Maps location]. Tickets to the speedboat are being sold on the bus from Cariari as you approach La Pavona.
If you’re staying in one of the lodges, you (very likely) don’t need to buy tickets for the speedboat transfer – most lodges pick up guests directly in La Pavona in their own boats. Check with your lodge and if they pick you up in their own boat, just let one of the staff members at the pier in La Pavona know.
Tip The boat ride from La Pavona to Tortuguero can take between 45 minutes and 1.5 hours, pending water levels and traffic. So, if you need to, use the bathroom in La Pavona before you embark.
The most direct bus-bus-boat connections are as follows (times are approximate, always confirm at the transportation terminal):
| Depart San José | Arrive Cariari | Depart Cariari | Arrive La Pavona | Depart La Pavona | Arrive Tortuguero |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 6:30 | 8:30 | 9:00 | 10:15 | 11:00 | 12:15 |
| 9:00 | 11:00 | 11:30 | 12:45 | 13:00 | 14:15 |
| 13:00 | 15:00 | 15:00 | 16:15 | 16:30 | 17:45 |
Speedboats to Tortuguero leave from the dock in La Pavona several times a day
The boat ride is your first chance to spot wildlife, as you’ll travel through the National Park. We spotted a Plumed Basilisk, a large Green Iguana and a keel-billed Toucan flying overhead.
On your return from Tortuguero, it’s the same journey in reverse. The most direct boat-bus-bus connections are as follows (times are approximate, always confirm with the transport provider):
| Depart Tortuguero | Arrive La Pavona | Depart La Pavona | Arrive Cariari | Depart Cariari | Arrive San José |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 5:30 | 6:15 | 7:30 | 9:00 | 9:00 | 11:00 |
| 9:00 | 10:15 | 10:30 | 11:45 | 13:00 | 15:00 |
| 11:00 | 12:15 | 13:00 | 14:15 | 15:00 | 17:00 |
The boat ride from La Pavona to Tortuguero goes through the National Park - your first chance to spot wildlife
Stay connected the moment you land
We use Airalo eSIMs on (almost) every trip to avoid roaming charges and the hassle of buying a local SIM. You can install your eSIM before you travel and get online as soon as you arrive. Airalo works in 200+ countries (we've used it across the Americas, Europe and Asia), but not everywhere - so check coverage before you buy.
New to Airalo? Use code NEWTOAIRALO15 for 15% off
Already a customer? Use AIRALOESIM10 for 10% off
The quickest way to get to Tortuguero from San José is to take a SANSA-operated flight between Juan Santamaría International Airport (IATA: SJO) and Tortuguero (IATA: TTQ), which takes approximately 30 minutes. If you plan to explore the Arenal Volcano National Park after Tortuguero, there is also a direct flight from Tortuguero (IATA: TTQ) to La Fortuna (IATA: FON), taking around 30 minutes.
Tip The airport in Tortuguero is an unstaffed landing strip with no facilities. So, if you choose to return to San José by plane, don’t arrive at the airport too early (despite what your flight confirmation says).
The quickest way to travel to Tortuguero is by plane from San José or Limón | Image courtesy of Wikimedia Commons
From/to Limón and the Southern Caribbean Coast
If you’re travelling to Tortuguero from the Southern Caribbean Coast (Puerto Viejo or Cahuiata), take the public MEPE bus to Limón [Google Maps location]. From the bus terminal, it’s a 15-minute Taxi/Uber ride to the dock in Moín [Google Maps location]. From there, a (shared) speedboat will take you to Tortuguero.
The speedboat travels for around three hours up the coast, along canals and rivers that run parallel to the Caribbean Sea. This journey was one of our favourite boat rides ever, with wildlife at every corner. Among the many animals we saw were two American Crocodiles, several Great Green Macaws and two Roseate Spoonbills.
The cheapest way to travel to Tortuguero from the Southern Caribbean coast is a bus to Limón, followed by a speedboat from the dock in Moín
Silt that accumulates – especially around river mouths (due to erosion from deforestation and agricultural activity) – can make navigating some parts of this route a bit trickier. We got (briefly) stuck on a sandbank, and our boat captain had to push a newly fallen tree out of the way as it stopped the water flow and allowed silt to build up (which would have impacted his return journey).
While speedboats from Moín to Tortuguero (or Tortuguero to Moín) usually depart at 10:00, passage depends on the navigability of the waterways. So, check availability and book your seat in advance by contacting Captain Benjamin via WhatsApp.
Tip There is no bathroom at the dock in Moín, and the speedboat does not stop anywhere during its 3-hour journey. Thus, use the bathroom facilities in the MEPE bus terminal in Limón before you leave.
On the 3-hour journey between Moín and Tortuguero (or vice versa), you'll see plenty of wildlife, maybe even the odd crocodile
If the speedboats don’t go, the alternative is to take a public bus from Limón to Cariari (via Guapiles) – the Caribeños bus terminal is on the other side of the baseball stadium [Google Maps location] – then follow our instructions from Cahuita via La Pavona to Tortuguero (by bus and boat).
For indicative timetables between Puerto Viejo/Cahuiata and Limón, as well as Limón and Cariari, see TheBusSchedule.com (Costa Rica).
Alternatively, a SANSA-operated flight from Limón (IATA: LIO) to Tortuguero (IATA: TTQ) takes around 20 minutes.
Where to stay in Tortuguero
Accommodation in Tortuguero falls into two main categories: jungle lodges (often only accessible by boat), and guesthouses and hostels in the village. Both options have pros and cons.
Jungle lodges offer the ultimate nature immersion. It’s not uncommon to be woken up by monkeys roaming in the trees above you or for a Toucan to sit on a branch outside your window. Away from the hustle and bustle of the village, they’re also a great place to switch off and relax. The downside: You’re more contained in one place and dependent on the transfer options offered by your lodge (or a private water taxi) to get to/from and explore Tortuguero village. Some lodges are all-inclusive, with all meals and even some tours offered as part of the accommodation package, decreasing the incentive even further for you to venture out by yourself. Many jungle lodges are owned by wealthy Costa Ricans or overseas owners, and more upmarket, which comes with a higher price tag.
Tortuguero's jungle lodges offer the ultimate nature immersion - you might even find a Toucan sitting right outside your window | Image courtesy of Zdenek Machacek on Unsplash
For budget travellers, guesthouses and hostels in the village offer affordable, authentic stays that directly benefit local people. Village stays give you easy access to family-run eateries, shops and the daily rhythm of community life. You’re staying with and among the locals, chatting with shop owners or local artisans, and getting a real feel for the village vibe. While not quite as immersed in nature as you are in a lodge, the National Park surrounds the village, and there are no motor vehicles, so monkeys, birds and other animals can be found in the town too (including some very friendly street dogs).
Whichever you choose, make your decision consciously. Look behind the glossy marketing brochure. Your stay can help protect Tortuguero’s fragile ecosystem and sustain the community that safeguards it. Here are our recommendations:
| Name | Property Features | Type | Book Now |
|---|---|---|---|
| Alma Del Bosque Hotel | Beachfront location in a quiet part of the village; air-conditioned double rooms with private bathroom; sea-view terrace and outdoor seating; free Wi-Fi; daily housekeeping; adults-only | Hotel | Book Now |
| Hotel Angsa River View Tortuguero | In-village riverside location with balconies and river views; family rooms; air conditioning; room service; continental breakfast available; daily housekeeping; no internet access available | Hotel | Book Now |
| House of Rainbow | Beachfront one-bedroom apartment; air conditioning; kitchenette; terrace and garden; good free Wi-Fi (30 Mbps); bicycle rental and luggage storage available | Apartment | Book Now |
| H et L | Modern one-bedroom apartment near Tortuguero Beach; balcony and terrace; full kitchen/kitchenette plus washing machine; fast free Wi-Fi (192 Mbps); air conditioning; adults-only; non-smoking throughout | Apartment | Book Now |
Tip While not the most sustainable option (unless the property runs on solar), we recommend to look for accommodation with air conditioning. Tortuguero is hot and humid, and just a fan in many cases doesn’t cut it, unfortunately.
Staying in a guesthouse or hostel in Tortuguero means you don't need transportation to get to a restaurant or shop, or to join a tour from the public pier
Where to eat and drink in Tortuguero
The best places to eat are small family-run eateries (called sodas in Costa Rica), which serve traditional dishes made with fresh ingredients like gallo pinto for breakfast, casados or empanadas for lunch, and fresh fish with plantains for dinner. Here are our favourites in the village:
- Soda D’Leite: This was our favourite soda in Tortuguero. The food is hearty, delicious and very affordable. Their strawberry juice is to die for, and the staff is super friendly.
- Thirema Cafe: A bit more pricey than Soda D’Leite, this is another excellent breakfast place. Located on the main walkway opposite Casa Marbella, this café serves the best coffee in Tortuguero (and the pancakes are delicious too).
- Tortillas Doña Mary: This mother-daughter-operated little food stall opposite Soda D’Leite serves delicious home-made tortillas, tacos and gallos. The best, however, are the enchiladas – for USD4, you have a very tasty and filling lunch option.
- El Patio: Despite its riverside setting, the food is delicious, and prices are reasonable. Watch the sunset from here with a cool drink (try the limonada con hierba buena), then sample ceviche or any other of their fish dishes (but stay away from the Chop Suey).
We counted three supermarkets in Tortuguero, well stocked with all the basics and reasonably priced despite the village's remoteness
For self-caterers, we counted three small supermarkets in Tortuguero village (from north to south):
- one on the main walkway near Thirema Café [Google Maps location]
- one in a side street near the public pier [Google Maps location], and
- one in a side street near the National Park entrance [Google Maps location].
They all stock the basics – rice, beans, pasta, snacks, drinks and fresh produce. The latter two were surprisingly affordable for Tortuguero’s remote location.
Tip While potable during the rainy season (according to our accommodation host), tap water in Tortuguero has had salinity issues during drier months. If your tap water tastes salty (and your accommodation doesn’t provide filtered water), you can either purchase large water bottles from local shops or use a portable water filter or treatment method to improve taste and reduce reliance on single-use plastic. If buying bottled water, bring empty bottles to the recycling centre in the centre of the village.
When in Tortuguero, make sure to try some of the fresh fish caught locally
How expensive is a visit to Tortuguero?
Costa Rica is not a cheap country to visit. But to our surprise, Tortuguero was one of the more affordable National Parks (despite its remoteness). Here is what you can expect.
Transport
The public bus/bus/boat combination from San José to Tortuguero cost us CRC7,200/~USD15 per person one way (of which the boat from La Pavona was CRC4,000/USD8 per person). The boat/taxi/bus journey from Tortuguero to Cahuita (via Moín and Limón) cost us CRC21,700/~USD43 per person (the boat shuttle to/from Moín alone costs USD35 per person).
Flights to/from Tortuguero are (of course) more expensive. For up-to-date air fares, check Skysanner or the SANSA website.
If you want to cross the Tortuguero River, for example to hike up Cerro Tortuguero, expect to pay CRC3,000/USD6 per person (return).
Accommodation
Basic village guesthouses and hostels start at approximately USD40 per night (for a double room). For a mid-range option in Tortuguero (double room with air conditioning and private bathroom), expect to pay between USD70 and USD100 per night.
Food and Drinks
For breakfast (meal, coffee and juice), expect to pay CRC5,000+ per person. For lunch or dinner (meal, 1-2 drinks and tip), expect to pay CRC10,000 to CRC15,000 per person. Self-catering is possible, but be prepared for a more limited range and slightly higher prices compared to more centrally located areas of Costa Rica.
Experiences
The National Park entry is USD16.95 for the Sector Canales and USD2.26 for the Sector Cerro Tortuguero (including tax). Two to three-hour guided, small group excursions (canoe/kayak, day/night walks or birdwatching tours) start at USD30 per person.
Are credit cards accepted?
Many restaurants (and all our suggestions above) take credit cards. However, many guesthouses, transportation providers and tour operators only accept cash (and prefer USD). You can also pay the national park entry fees online using your credit card.
Are there ATMs in Tortuguero?
There may be an ATM in Tortuguero, but we didn’t encounter one when we visited the village. We recommend withdrawing sufficient cash before you leave San José, Limón or Puerto Viejo (and bringing enough USD cash to pay for your needs).
What about tipping?
El Patio (and other restaurants in Tortuguero) already include a 10% service charge – always check the bill before you tip. Guides and boat captains do not expect tips, but if you’ve been exceptionally pleased with a service, a small tip is always appreciated.
Bring enough cash to Tortuguero to pay for your accommodation, tour and transportation needs
Still on the fence about visiting Tortuguero National Park?
What other questions do you have about Tortuguero that we haven’t answered yet? Please let me know. And if you’ve visited already, what other tips would you add? I’d be keen to know.
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